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    Ubiquitous Administrator Donnie's Avatar
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    Performance Section information Dump.

    Keeping this clean, uncluttered and locked. If you have a question specific about a certain part, contact it's author directly or start a new thread for discussion. If you see something needing editing or updating, contact your local friendly moderation team member.
    Thanks.
    -Donnie.

    -NGK Spark Plug Guide.



    Courtesy of LoudSL.


    -Spark Plug Gap Theory.

    "Here is an email I got from a kid that pertains to gap theory, thought this may be a good place to post it and it is interesting info. My email reply back to him is first and his is at the bottom so start there."

    "Hello Tyler,

    I must apologize as I double checked this information which unfortunately is not entirely accurate, It should be changed to read:

    "The incorrect plug gap for your engine can contribute to a high rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, and accelerated plug wear."

    You see the plugs gap regardless of too large or small should not result in a big enough change in electrode temperature of either electrode that it should result in abnormal combustion (pre-ignition or detonation).

    Actually a smaller gap has the opposite effect of what you described. A smaller gap will require less initial voltage to fire which means the secondary ignition voltage would actually begin to ionize the air gap sooner than a larger plug gap would, which in effect is like advancing the ignition timing and vice versa with a larger gap. This happens to a very small degree, so chances are you wouldn’t actually notice this small difference in firing time with small gap changes.

    It is easy to imagine your ignitions available voltage output as a piece of rope and lets for the sake of argument say this rope is 10 inches long and represents 40k volts. If the initial voltage required to ionize the air gap is 24k volts or 6 inches of rope then we only have 4 inches of rope left to keep the plug burning (16k volts). So theoretically if we raised the gap and now the voltage required on this same engine increased to 28k volts (7 inches), we would then have only 3 inches of rope left to keep the plug firing.

    Leaner air fuel ratios which are less dense and much harder to ignite will require a larger gap which will require more initial voltage (higher initial heat energy) to start the burn, but results in a shorter burn time. Lean air fuel ratios also tend to burn more quickly than rich AFRs so the firing time is not as critical.

    A smaller gap will usually be needed for high performance racing applications because under high cylinder pressures and high RPMs the voltage requirement is much higher than it is in your moms Taurus. The available time to fire the plug is very short at high Rpms and the A/F ratios are rich and subsequently dense, so we do not need as high initial voltages (heat) to start the burn like we do with lean A/F ratios.

    Remember a large gap would result in a shorter burn time which would not effectively ignite our entire dense fuel charge resulting in wasted energy (less power output). By lowering the gap in these high power applications we can lower the voltage requirement and get the plug to spark sooner and for a longer period which will help give us a better chance to more completely ignite our slow burning rich air fuel charge and create higher peak cylinder pressure and ultimately more power. This is pretty technical stuff so I hope that it makes this more clear for you. Also keep in mind that while a lower gap may help in a high Rpm race engine it will not be well suited to getting the best possible gas, part throttle, and idling efficiency (which require a larger gap for greater ignitability) Hope this helps, thank you."


    "Comments: I was wondering is you could elaborate as to WHY this statement (directly from the NGK website) is true? "Insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage." We're having a discussion about the theory behind this on one of my enthusiast forums, and everything we've read elsewhere says that reducing plug gap has an effect similar to retarding timing (due to a smaller initial flame kernel). In turn, this should reduce tip temperature, and (to the contrary) should reduce the chances of pre-ignition.
    As such I'm just wondering what additional factors would come into play to actually contribute to the chance of pre-ignition with a smaller plug gap? ANY additional info your techs could provide on the facts and theory behind this situation would be GREATLY appreciated!!"

    Courtesy of NGKTECH.



    -Weight Reduction Handbook.

    http://www.evilplastic.com/p92-wgt1.htm

    Courtesy of Lane. (Non member.)



    -Exhaust Tubing Master List (S-Series).

    Option 1:
    two 90* bends
    four 45* bends and 4-5 ft of straight tube
    Option 2:
    Three 90* bends
    One 45 * bend
    or
    Three "U" or "J" bends with 11-13 inches of straight section on each

    Both option lengths depend upon Resonator, Muffler, Catalytic Converter and Flex Pipe choices.

    ---



    "Obviously this system leaves out a muffler, which would be in the last straight section."

    Courtesy of JaigerGrnSL2 and PurdueGuy, respectively.


    -Intake Manfold Calculations.*

    http://www.grapeaperacing.com/tech/index.cfm
    *Lots of good information, not all applicable to our Platforms/non-Saturn Specific.

    Courtesy of Red4Coupe.


    -Aftermarket Bolt-on list.*

    Breather
    Intake
    -AEM Cold-Air
    -AEM Short-Ram
    -CP (Discontinued)
    -eBay Knock-Offs
    -Knight Engineering Iceman
    -Injen
    -QkSL2/FSR Cold-Air: 3" Mild Steel
    -SPS/Hotshot
    -XRC (Hoodscoop/Discontinued/Rare)
    -XRC Short-Ram
    -Vibrant Performance

    Throttle Body
    -Geo Storm SOHC
    -Geo Storm DOHC
    -MPM
    -SDA
    -SMS
    -SPS (Discontinued): 56mm/52mm TP
    -Szpracing
    -XRC: 55mm

    Intake Manifold
    -MPM (Discontinued)
    -QkSL2
    -SDA
    -SMS
    -SPS

    Header
    -Hotshot: Mandrel Bent Ceramic Coated Steel
    -OEM (91'-92'): Crush Bent Mild Steel
    -OBX: Mandrel Bent Stainless Steel
    -Pacesetter
    -SMS (Discontinued/Extremely Rare)
    -SPS (Discontinued/Rare)

    Exhaust
    -Borla (Discontinued/Rare)
    -HKS (Discontinued)
    -Pacesetter: 2 3/16" Mandrel Bent Aluminized Steel
    -SPS: 2" Mandrel Bent Stainless Steel
    -Thermal: 2 1/4" Mandrel Bent Stainless Steel

    Motor
    Camshafts
    -Crower
    -Gude
    -Mid Penn Motorsport
    -OEM Dual Intake Mod
    -QkSL2/FSR Chopsticks
    -SDA
    -SPS (Discontinued/Extremely Rare)

    Camgears
    -Fidanza

    Clutch
    -ACT
    -Centerforce
    -Clutch Masters
    -RAM
    -Southbend
    -SPEC

    Flywheel
    -Clutch Masters
    -Fidanza
    -Indigo
    -SMS
    -SPEC
    -SPS: 7.25lbs Aluminum
    -Unorthodox Racing

    Pistons
    -CP
    -J&E
    -Ross
    -Sealed Power Hypereutectic
    -Wiseco

    Rods
    -Carrillo (Custom Order)
    -Crower Standard
    -Crower Super Lite
    -Pauter (Custom Order)
    -Scat

    Head
    -Clear Water (Custom Order)
    -Patriot
    -SDA
    -SPS

    Valves
    -Ferrea
    -SDA
    -SMS

    Valve Springs
    -Ferrea

    Underdrive Pulleys
    -Custom Car Grills
    -OBX
    -SMS
    -SZP Racing
    -Unorthodox Racing

    Transaxle
    Short Throw Shifter
    -Chris97SC2: Roller Bearing
    -DasPirate
    -SPS
    -VMS150

    Limited Slip Differential
    -Phantom Grip
    -Quaife
    -Torsen

    Suspension
    Strut Tower Braces
    -AMR Engineering (Front/Rear)
    -eBay
    -Progress
    -Ractive
    -SPS Billet
    -SPS Solid
    -SPS
    -Sprint
    -XRC

    Swaybars
    -ICY: Front
    -Progress (Green): 19mm
    -Progress: Front
    -RPM: 17.5mm 3-way Adjustable
    -SPS (Black): 16mm
    -SPS (Red): 16mm 3-Way Adjustable
    -SPS (Yellow): 17.5mm 4-way Adjustable

    Swaybar Links
    -BWTucker: 3/8" Heim Joint
    -BWTucker: 7/16" Heim Joint
    -Carquest
    -Moog
    -Racing Beat: Mazda Miata

    Swaybar Brackets
    -BWTucker
    -ProDarwin

    Bushings
    -Energy Suspension
    -SPS

    Motor Mounts (Dogbone)
    -PimpedSC2: Billet Aluminum
    -SDA
    -Summit Inserts (3rd Gen)
    -Twistec (Discontinued)

    Motor Mounts (TAM)
    -Earthshaker (Discontinued/Extremely Rare)
    -Ground Pounder: Billet Aluminum
    -Ground Pounder: Mild Steel
    -SDA
    -SDA Insert

    Transmission Mounts (TAM)
    -Ground Pounder: Mild Steel

    Brakes
    Rotors
    -ATE PremiumOne
    -Baer
    -Brembo
    -EBC
    -Powerslot

    Pads
    -ATE PremiumOne
    -Hawk HPS
    -Power Stop
    -Satisfied Pro

    Lines
    -Goodridge

    Big Brakes
    -SSBC
    -Wilwood (Honda Conversion)

    Ignition
    Plug Wires
    -Bosch
    -eBay
    -HKS
    -Magnecore: 8.5mm
    -MSD
    -NGK
    -Nology: 15mm
    -OBX
    -SPS: 8mm
    -Vitek

    Coilpacks
    -Accel
    -MSD
    -SPS
    -Summit

    Tuning
    -Apexi' SAFC
    -HKS S-AFR
    -Megasquirt (DIY Standalone)
    -Electromotive 'Tec' (Standalone)
    -MSD DIS2

    *Information may, or may not be accurate and up to date.

    Courtesy of lilcraigford
    Last edited by Donnie; 03-03-2011 at 05:53 AM.

    Ethanol and Boost: My Anti-Drugs.

    2016 Chevrolet Colorado LT - HNNNNGG.
    1999 Ford Dangah Rangah XLT - Junk haulin' junker-slut.
    1998 Saturn SC2 - Garbage. Pure, unadulterated, unapologetic, garbage.
    Gone: 2004 POSRT4 - 372/425 @ 20psi, "Super safe tune" --- 4xx/4xx @ 26psi, "BAMF Tune"
    Next: 1990 Supra "LOLNOJZ" - LSx, 4L80E, Megasquirt, whole lot of Ethanol, whole lot of snail...

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