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  1. #1
    Ubiquitous Administrator Donnie's Avatar
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    S-Series Shift Cable Ends fix.

    I can't for the life of me remember the specifics, nor can I seem to find it via the search. But I recall a few guys getting beefier ends for their shift cables and clamping 'em on. Anyone care to refresh the details on this for me again?

    Ethanol and Boost: My Anti-Drugs.

    2016 Chevrolet Colorado LT - HNNNNGG.
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  2. #2
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    You guys are retarded. I simply typed in "saturn shift cable" into the ebay search and this was the 3rd or 4th listing.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stain...Q5fAccessories


    There is also this crappier one... I used it on a co-workers car a few years back and it last about 3 monthes.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Impro...Q5fAccessories
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
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  3. #3
    gold00sl's Avatar
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    Here are the ones on ebay i found

    http://motors.shop.ebay.com/saturnbu...id=p4340.l2562

    There was also this I found by I think lilcraigford

    http://thedetailjunky.blogspot.com/
    Last edited by gold00sl; 05-24-2011 at 05:53 PM.
    2000 Sl1, DOHC + 5spd Swap with Welded Diff, Ported & Polished & .30 shaved head, Port Matched Intake Manifold, Ported TB, SDA DogBone Mounts, Fidanza Fw, 2.25 Cat Back, Window Welded Trans Mount, AEM wideband, Quad Hid Projector Retrofit soon

  4. #4
    scottyr94's Avatar
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    I don't believe that's what he's looking for Sam, the shifter I left in that car already had one of those stainless deals on it.

  5. #5
    Ubiquitous Administrator Donnie's Avatar
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    Sam, the Cable ends themselves.

    Scotty, Correct. (The rest of that shifter is currently sitting on my bench, getting rebuilt btw. Yikes. lol.)

    As to the rest of you guys, thanks for hitting this nail right on the head. I think I may actually consolidate all of this and stick it up in the DIY section for future reference.

    Ethanol and Boost: My Anti-Drugs.

    2016 Chevrolet Colorado LT - HNNNNGG.
    1999 Ford Dangah Rangah XLT - Junk haulin' junker-slut.
    1998 Saturn SC2 - Garbage. Pure, unadulterated, unapologetic, garbage.
    Gone: 2004 POSRT4 - 372/425 @ 20psi, "Super safe tune" --- 4xx/4xx @ 26psi, "BAMF Tune"
    Next: 1990 Supra "LOLNOJZ" - LSx, 4L80E, Megasquirt, whole lot of Ethanol, whole lot of snail...

  6. #6

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    Ball joint setup with McMaster 6072K31 on the trans and 6072K154 on the shifter. Make note of over all length, cut off plastic ends and thread 1/4-28, Then grind off studs on shifter and trans arms. Attach with top lock or jam nuts.




  7. #7
    Ubiquitous Administrator Donnie's Avatar
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    Hein, that is downright gorgeous.

    I'm cleaning this up, retitling, and tossing it in the S-Series section. Thanks guys.


    Edit: Here's a non expiring link to the gentleman supplying the non-heim joint solutions.

    http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/s...id=p4340.l2559
    Last edited by Donnie; 05-25-2011 at 12:30 AM.

    Ethanol and Boost: My Anti-Drugs.

    2016 Chevrolet Colorado LT - HNNNNGG.
    1999 Ford Dangah Rangah XLT - Junk haulin' junker-slut.
    1998 Saturn SC2 - Garbage. Pure, unadulterated, unapologetic, garbage.
    Gone: 2004 POSRT4 - 372/425 @ 20psi, "Super safe tune" --- 4xx/4xx @ 26psi, "BAMF Tune"
    Next: 1990 Supra "LOLNOJZ" - LSx, 4L80E, Megasquirt, whole lot of Ethanol, whole lot of snail...

  8. #8
    satysw2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hein View Post
    Ball joint setup with McMaster 6072K31 on the trans and 6072K154 on the shifter. Make note of over all length, cut off plastic ends and thread 1/4-28, Then grind off studs on shifter and trans arms. Attach with top lock or jam nuts.



    That does look nice.

  9. #9

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    must the threading be done off the car? how do you keep the shaft from rotating while threading?

  10. #10
    Ubiquitous Administrator Donnie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95crackedhead View Post
    must the threading be done off the car? how do you keep the shaft from rotating while threading?
    Vice Grips, I assume.

    Ethanol and Boost: My Anti-Drugs.

    2016 Chevrolet Colorado LT - HNNNNGG.
    1999 Ford Dangah Rangah XLT - Junk haulin' junker-slut.
    1998 Saturn SC2 - Garbage. Pure, unadulterated, unapologetic, garbage.
    Gone: 2004 POSRT4 - 372/425 @ 20psi, "Super safe tune" --- 4xx/4xx @ 26psi, "BAMF Tune"
    Next: 1990 Supra "LOLNOJZ" - LSx, 4L80E, Megasquirt, whole lot of Ethanol, whole lot of snail...

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by 95crackedhead View Post
    must the threading be done off the car? how do you keep the shaft from rotating while threading?

    yes it can be done in car. vice grips will work. easiest way is to take out the shifter( probably not nessacary, but recommended to take out studs anyways). then cut and thread the cables there.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by hein View Post
    Ball joint setup with McMaster 6072K31 on the trans and 6072K154 on the shifter. Make note of over all length, cut off plastic ends and thread 1/4-28, Then grind off studs on shifter and trans arms. Attach with top lock or jam nuts.



    DO WANT, this is sexy well as sexy as shift cables can be lol

  13. #13
    RMR North's Avatar
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    Hey Donnie if you get the ones off of ebay that have the 2 hex bolts that pinch the link onto the cable... I.E. these...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Satur...item19ae415935

    Make sure you take a Dermal type tool to the end of the cable itself where those to bolts would make contact with the cable, and put two small indents into the cable so that they can't slide off. I happened to me a few times until I did that and now hasn't happened since.
    RMR Sport SC2 Slow


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  14. #14
    Resident Electromotive Expert importsdontlikeme's Avatar
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    I will be doing what hien did! That is exactly what I have been looking for sweet!

    Interested in a solid engine management system? Ask me about Electromotive engine management.

  15. #15
    lilcraigford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gold00sl View Post
    Here are the ones on ebay i found

    http://motors.shop.ebay.com/saturnbu...id=p4340.l2562

    There was also this I found by I think lilcraigford

    http://thedetailjunky.blogspot.com/
    http://thedetailjunky.blogspot.com/2...resh-post.html

    I still need to do the trans ends. Probably when I rebuild the 5-speed.

    '94 SL2: The Detail Junky (Will it ever run? Does it even exist?)
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  16. #16

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    I take it you guys are drilling out the posts on the shifters arms and using a nut and bolt to hold the cable end in place?

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  17. #17

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    The posts have an upset head to hold them in the arms. Just grind off the head and drive it out with a punch. The holes are bigger than what is needed for 1/4 " so use some hardened washers on both sides.

    [edit] Very nice write up in your blog, Craig. That's going to be sweet with your short shifter.
    Last edited by hein; 06-05-2011 at 12:09 PM.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

  18. #18

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    Taking this one step further...

    Midwest Controls Products has an online custom cable design application. I designed a replacement cable complete with the spherical rod ends discussed above. Total cost for two cables was $85 plus shipping.

    Here's the cable: http://www.impact3d.com/saturn_s_cable.pdf

    And the project at hand:



    I designed an adapter to properly position the main cable in the trans housing. If someone wants to turn this for me then please speak up.

    http://www.impact3d.com/bushing_s-series_cable.pdf

    I'll need to fab and weld a bulkhead to the shifter bracket. And figure out how to seal the cables where they exit the floor board. More to come.
    Last edited by hein; 07-05-2011 at 07:30 PM.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

  19. #19
    Level 3 Post Op. Special Forces's Avatar
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    If I was going back to school hein I could turn these myself in an hour. However, I still have solid connections and possibly can have it turned when September comes around. It's such a basic part I'm sure I could have my lab tech do it. But I'm really interested in your project, those cables are awesome.

    As for the sealing the floorboard inlet/outlet can't you use the stock rectangle rubber piece and then where the cables go through cut a small hole for two regular rubber grommets. They should give enough to have the end of the cable slip through and come back to tight.
    Last edited by Special Forces; 07-12-2011 at 01:47 PM.
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  20. #20

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    Bushing has been machined and I picked up a couple of other parts to mock things up. Shifts good but won't really be able to tell until it is in the car.

    First picture is of the trans end with bushing-sleeve-washer-nut to move the lower cable end away from the OEM lug. This is needed to adapt to a 'standard' cable and to keep the two cables the same. I swapped out the studded ball ends for regular ones on this end of the cable for better alignment. That change might save a buck or two on the cable. -I will post new cable pdf once it's all verified.



    Below is the shifter end with 5/8-18 nuts (to be welded) holding the cable ends. The longer coupler nut is needed to adapt to the 'standard' cable. The washer on the drawing is SAE sized 5/8 grade 8. Three are required. It's OD fits a relief machined in the lug on the trans case and also matches the O.D of the sleeve. The unpainted bushing (per drawing) and sleeve are also shown.



    And set up for for testing:



    It took me a long while to decide to even try this mod because it seemed a bit pointless. But it's kind of fun now that I'm into it.
    Last edited by hein; 07-22-2011 at 12:14 PM.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

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