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  • Power Steering Kill Switch How-To

    Power Steering Kill Switch How-to: *Saturn S-series:
    Many of you remove the power steering systems all together and loop the lines to maximize road feel, but I, as well as some others give the excuse of parking and maybe not being man enough to deal with manual steering in the summer without air conditioning.
    The stock system uses an EVO solenoid to reduce the amount of power assist provided by the system as vehicle speed increases. *Starting with 0 mA at a dead stop and maximum assist and gradually increasing the current to a maximum of 650 mA at 55 mph with minimal assist (feels to be about half or 1/3 assist). We can fool this solenoid into thinking we are always traveling at highway speeds by switching it to a constant power source.

    Parts Needed:
    • 1x double pole double throw switch
    • 6x lengths of wire to reach wherever you want to mount the switch
    • 1x *7.5 – 8ohm resistor that can handle at least 3w (I used 2 15ohm 2w resistors in parallel, using 8 ohms in series with the 10 ohm solenoid gives you 666 mA)
    • Soldering iron, solder, and some heat shrink tubing

    1. Cut the wires that lead to pins C15 and C16 on your wiring harness, these lead to your EVO solenoid.
    2. Connect the engine side of the cut wires to the common terminals of your DPDT switch by soldering those lengths of wire mentioned earlier (Hint: the common terminals are usually the centre 2 on a rectangular switch), I don’t want you to blow anything up because you’re a Saturn driver too and we’re like family… right?
    4. So now you have 2 leads left on you DPDT switch, both on the “on” side of things, the terminal on the same side as C15 (EVO solenoid low) needs to be spliced to pin C1, this is the ground wire for the PCM, if you have an SAFC installed, you will already have something spliced into this line (I think this splice should be closest to the battery after both splices made for the SAFC to prevent any funny readings, correct me if I’m wrong). This wire must also carry the resistor mentioned above, so solder the resistor into this wire somewhere along the way (The resistor will become a little hot during use, so, be warned).
    5. The last terminal on the DPDT switch needs to be spliced to pin A7, this is a switched power source for the PCM, this line will also already be spliced into if you have an SAFC installed.
    6. Double check everything with the beautiful diagram I’ve attached.

    C15 EVO Low (white/blue)
    C15 EVO High (black/blue)
    C1 PCM Ground (black/white)
    A7 Ignition 12+ (pink)

    Overall, steering effort is increased quite a bit at very low speeds (parking lot stuff), but on anything faster then 20 kph, it adds a nice firmness to the steering. At highway speeds it feels exactly the same, as expected. When the switched is put back to its original state, everything feels exactly as stock. Note: this will throw a code 16 SES light, but what the hell doesn’t trigger a SES light? I've been driving around with this usually in the on position for about a week now... I'll post up if anything goes wrong, but so far... all seems well...

    Kam (93SL1Ricer)
    Untitled Document
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