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  1. #21
    Get off my lawn.
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    two thumbs up. I like! Mild, functional, cool, and cheap.

    BTW dude, sorry I've been slow as hell... sunroof is packed up in my cube with liberal amounts of bubble wrap and plastic/styrofoam packing. Tell me where you want it sent (business is preferable).

  2. #22
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    Quote Originally Posted by saturntech95
    If you are talking LLO in that thing it wont be the first one......
    Do tell?
    *edit* after a Google search, I found a few hit-miss mentions of it being done. One pic of a bare LLO+ some auto on a bare sami frame. Thanks for stating the obvious and letting the cat out of the bag though. I just assumed since the 1.9 S-series is pretty much hated by the rest of the car culture, that it would not have been thought of, should have known better I guess.

    Thanks prodarwin!
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  3. #23
    saturntech95's Avatar
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    The motor that I currently have in my wagon right now is the one that originated the LLO into Sammy setup. I know the guy built 2 of them, next time I talk to the guy I wanna try to see if I can get the motor mounts he used ar atleast how/who made them.
    ------- MIKE --------

    WARNING: The following posts may contain and are most likely the result of any/all of the following. Boredom, laziness, apathy, lack of sleep, alchahol and a strong desire to be a jackass for no good reason other than because I can and am. Please read and take any or all posts with a grain of salt and a sense of humor. Not responsible for any butt-hurt, bad attitudes, or temper tantrums. By reading this, you have accepted this warning as a warning, therefore you have been warned, Thank you.

  4. #24
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    pretty freaking cool.

  5. #25
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    A few updated pics from last nights parking lot fun. They are cell pics as it was 1:30am after a movie and beers. It was snowing, so that's not all the cell's fault.

    Another pristine, snow-covered parking lot destroyed.









    As you can see, the lift is all done. Ive bee daily driving it for the last month or so. The ride is a bit better, but as I stated before, I need shorter and softer shocks all around. With the giant units I got with this lift, I can use maybe 1/2 of their travel. It does run a bit better since I set the valve lash, added a new valve cover (more pics later), and set the ignition timing with an actual light and not by ear.
    Last edited by ZombieSatty; 12-19-2010 at 08:14 PM.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  6. #26
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    cool looks like some fun!

  7. #27

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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    samurai best vehicle I ever had for snow. Jeep wrangler, nissan pathfinder, ford exploder, isuzu trooper.

  8. #28
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    Wow, so yea time to update. This thing has gotten a few noteworthy things done as of late.

    A few months ago the stock carb starting having massive vac issues, I couldn't diagnose it other than some parts of the carb body had come disconnected from each other. It would have been a simple-ish fix, but stock sucks right?

    Enter a 'My Side' kit from Zuks Off Road (ZOR):

    Those of you with knowledge outside of the Saturn realm may spot a Harley Davidson side draft/Constant Velocity carb. In this pic things are not 100% finalized, but they are now for the most part. Why a HD carb? because they don't stall out on angles like the stockers will, they are easy as hell to re-tune for motor modifications, and they can support all but the most built 1.3 Samurai motors, and it looks cool as hell now. Oh and the best part? This swap/kit allows me to ditch the stock 'PCM'. Yes, my truck had a PCM controlling JUST the carb (late 80's emissions crap). Ive got it tuned about 90% at the moment. Just need to step up the main jet one or two more sizes and play with the timing a bit more to get the top end to come on as strong as down low. Even right now, my bottom end torque has increased to the point of being able to get an occasional chirp from my (much larger than stock) tires on a solid launch in 1st. That may not sound like much, but for a Samurai, that's something!

    Below the carb you might spot the red cylinder deal on the fender. Its a coolant circulating block heater. I mounted it wrong (came with no instructions), but I will remedy that before the snow fly's this year. I've got an interesting solution to driving a cold soft-top this coming winter, pics to come on that one...While the coolant was out, and the intake manifold was off, I put new upper/lower radiator hoses and thermostat on. Mainly because I was pretty sure they had never been changed.

    My Lumina hood louvers are now powdercoated flat black and installed in the hood.


    On a recent junkyarding trip I found a full set of (cheapish) aftermarket alloys on a 4-door 90's Geo Tracker (younger sibling to samurai). They are now mounted with my Toyo's and on the truck, no pics yet though. Here is how I found them:




    They are about an inch wider than the factory steelies, and a fair amount lighter, both pluses when running bigger than stock tires. For $25 a wheel/shitty tire combo, I'm not complaining. I am on the hunt for a matching 5th one for a spare, found matching wheels by American Eagle Alloys. They apparently call them "Series 28". Mine were made in Brazil by 'Mangels', but they look identical and the specs match up. I will be calling the closest supplier and see if I can complete my set, eventually.
    Last edited by ZombieSatty; 12-19-2010 at 08:19 PM.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  9. #29
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Re: Zombie's Samurai

    The rear brake hardlines were beginning to seep. So again, I jumped in with both feet. I ordered all new hardlines for the axle. There originally was a proportioning valve plumbed in both the rear lines. It was leaking fluid badly, and since the rear disc brake kit would come with a new Prop. valve to mount up by the master, I deleted the original one. The rear disc brake conversion kit and rear axle hardlines are from from SpiderTrax offroad. Its just simple brackets to mount stock Samurai front calipers and rotors to the rear axle. There was an update to the calipers in 90 I think, so I ordered an updated set for the swap. The front end also got attention with rotors and rebuilt calipers from a 90's 4-door Tracker/Sidekick. The caliper is larger, a better design, uses a larger pad, and the rotors are vented (stocks were not!). All these new brake bits brought attention to my puny Master Cylinder. Turns out master cylinders from certain Subaru's have a significantly larger piston and bolt right to the stock booster. Ebay came through again and found me one off a Forrester with only 60k on it for cheap, so on it went.

    Stock front calipers and rotors on the rear end:


    In the pic a post above, there is a finned aluminum valve cover installed. Its actually off a Geo Metro LSI. Long story there about shared heads/blocks etc.

    The initial reason I went Yarding (when I found the wheels), was a complete Samurai fresh to the lot. A local friend beat me to the Fiberglass hardtop, but I got the excellent condition Transfercase to replace my leaking/screaming unit. The truck also had a rather beefy factory brush guard, so that and the Tcase are waiting to be installed when I get some time.

    it used to be chrome...Not sure what I want to do for painting/coating this one. I like chrome accents, not whole bumpers. Especially on this truck, contrasts with the rust/mud.


    Problem now is that my lift kit is in the way of where the brush guard is supposed to mount to the frame, AND has forced me to relocate the stock bumper. I'll think of something...
    Last edited by ZombieSatty; 12-19-2010 at 08:30 PM.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  10. #30
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    All I had to do to make it fit was to grind down a few bolt heads a LITTLE. I got it mount up in the factory locations even with my lift stuff being basically in the way. In the process, I also re-mounted my stock bumper so that it tucks up to the body better. Unfortunately, I don't have any really recent pics of my truck, because I've been messing with it all summer. This is the best I have that has the brushguard mounted.



    I just finalized my solution to driving a thin, drafty soft-top Zuk in the winter. Even after sealing as many holes in the body as I could, adding foam weatherstripping to the soft top's sealing edges, and cleaning out the stock heater core, my truck was still miserably cold in the winter. I was left cold and wondering how the heck to make this thing comfortable for me and my passengers during the snowy months. Short of adding insulation to the whole floor and body (not something I care to do to an old truck, yet), I was stumped.

    While wandering a junk yard this summer I found this spiffy little stand-alone heater. It was bolted to the floor of an 80's VW Vanagon. It took some thought as to where to mount it, and how to control it, but the final project is a very nice addition to my truck. The great thing is I didn't really loose anything in the process. I decided to T into the existing heater lines, as this way I can now choose to have either or both heaters running at the same time. This also allows my coolant/block heater to heat up both cores. The heater unit itself is mounted to the previously worthless little package tray just above the passenger's feet.




    I ended up adding a second stock Samurai heater control valve, and a modified set of Samurai heater controls. The controls are mounted just below the factory location, and the second heater valve is bolted JUST above the stock location on the firewall.




    I guess Suzuki and VW do their wiring and fan controls a little differently. If the high/med/low wires are simply spliced together, the VW fan only gives low/high/low, (or something, I forget exactly, but its wrong). So in order get the new/2nd fan speed switch to work right I had to modify the contacts a bit. It took some time to trace wiring diagrams, figure out exactly what contact/lead did what, and pin down how the switch worked mechanically. The fix was pretty easy in the end. I used simple electrical solder to join two contacts and a rotary tool's cut off wheel to sever part of another. The fan works correctly, with all 3 speeds in the right switch position.



    I was more that a little frustrated when I found this thing to be leaking coolant near the inlet hose. After researching through VW forums, I found my answer. I guess these guys have an O-ring seal that likes to leak between the control valve and the core body.

    Pics of leak-fix:




    The culprit is that smashed O ring sitting on the face of the seal flange. Few seconds with a tiny screwdriver and the old one popped out and was replaced. Easy enough fix, and my heater is fully installed and operational!
    Last edited by ZombieSatty; 12-19-2010 at 09:52 PM.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  11. #31
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Current pic of the engine bay:


    The My-side carb is running well, but feels like it needs to be re-jetted since I just redid half the electrical system. Maybe the truck is getting a better ground or something.

    Electrical upgrade:
    Originally, I got hooked on the idea of adding more electrical power to provide enough amps for my 2nd heater. Upgrading the alternator was a logical step. A simple 20 dollar alternator bracket was thrown onto one of my other orders and this is what I get:


    A 94amp, GM (12si) is the hot ticket with these trucks. Funny thing is, the entire Samurai system originally ran on a puny 35 amp alternator. Now I can run the entire existing Samurai system off of one large fuse (35amp) in this new under hood fuse box:


    Its an under hood fuse box out of a 90's Tracker. I copied the installation and the basic wiring directly from the Tracker, using the original circuit labels as a guide. Some of the circuits are being used with this new setup, but there are 4 labeled Headlights. Perfect opportunity for some beefy off-road/driving lights...in the future. One of the bigger circuits powers the new electric radiator fan through a relay triggered by an adjustable thermostatic switch. I didn't like powering the fan itself through the switch, so I added the relay and powered the switch itself from the 2nd interior fuse box. The rest of the other large-amp circuits are being run over to the unfinished relay panel on the top right, (a modified Saturn part):


    All 5 of the relays are triggered on when the key goes go Aux. Then from there they power the 2nd interior fuse box that was pilfered from a Suzuki Sidekick. It is exactly the same size as a Samurai box, so I just mounted it directly underneath the stock one:

    *hold for pic*

    Three of the new interior circuits are now powering my Tach, the new VW heater fan and the radiator fan switch. This leaves me with PLENTY of fused, switched circuits left over to power whatever I feel like adding to the interior in the future...like a radio, gauges, etc.
    Last edited by ZombieSatty; 12-20-2010 at 07:42 PM.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  12. #32
    HNIC SC2Sick's Avatar
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    If it were mine and I just upgraded the alternator and electrical system it would get some big/bright lights for driving through the snow and shit.
    Sixthsphere.com Owner
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  13. #33
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    In due time. other Tony, in due time.

    I ended up having to replace the whole VW heater core. It leaked through both endcaps. I found a brand new Valeo brand unit at www.gowesty.com (a VW parts place) for less than 90 shipped! Anyway, just put the new core in about 30 mins ago.

    To answer the question as to how much heat the thing puts out, its really quite impressive! I doubt I will even need to use the stock heater at all. The VW fan flows much more air too. Medium on the VW fan is about the high of the old Zuk fan. I might be able to put the Zuk system on recirculate+cool and let the VW heater do all the work. More thoughts on that once I drive it a bit more.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  14. #34
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Updated pics showing the brush guard and new wheels.









    I had cut out the rusted out pinchweld/seam between the rear wheel wells and the body/fender. But I had a hard time getting my welder friends over here to put it back together. So necessity breeds some very redneck creativity!

    Yes that's Aluminum Duct tape. Its a rusty old truck, this will do just fine until next spring when I can get it patched back up correctly.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  15. #35
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Not much has happened to this my little beast. This week/weekend I have been buisy wiring up some 6in, 85watt PIAA fogs I found at the junkyard. The yellow (Ion Crystal) lenses are perfect, cases are rusty, but so is the truck.

    *Pics here*

    I have them wired up to turn on with the running lights, as long as I have the interior switch 'on'. So just like the fogs on Sseries.

    I also wired up my (pair) of horns out of a 90's Volvo. They are harmonic so they sound all cool and stuff. Not to mention the 80's suzuki horn was seriously lacking in the "You nearly took off my front bumper with that unannounced lane change!" department. They are triggered by a the stock horn circut through a relay and straight power from the seccond fusebox.

    *more pics*
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  16. #36
    tealsc1's Avatar
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    Looks pretty sweet. I saw a hard top one on craigslist when I was looking around, but I couldn't bring myself to call about it lol
    93 SC1.5m DD; finally runs

    90 300ZX TT; $800 diamond in the rough

  17. #37
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Time for an update.

    Truck hasn't gotten much love the last few years. Having a kid and buying a new house within 2 years of each other will do that.

    Finally got back around to getting it re- registered. Decided to try and get it going for this winter.

    First on the list was to get it started, it hasn't run much since the move 2 Julys ago. I have been trying to a least get it fired up and warmed monthly. Though I know I haven't met that goal. Anyway, with a little extra fuel sprayed into the carb, she fired up just fine and settled into its old familiar idle after warming up. Had to douse and clear a wasp nest out from the underhood fuse box in the process, so that was fun.

    With the running thing out of the way, I turned my attention to the rest of the truck. The main reason I haven't been driving it apart from sometimes having to drop the kid off, was the wipers stopped working a few years back. They move, but very.weekly. a new wiper motor install and experimental extra grounding didn't fix it. So I'm hoping it's the combo switch. Need a new one anyway. I'll get to it if I get it driving, kinda need wipers in Nebraska in the winter...

    Like any good car guy, I decided to install a pile of upgrade parts I had for it before getting it back on the road. This consists of new differentials and carriers both front and rear out of the front of a 4 door Suzuki Sidekick sport, (i think). They are direct bolt in swaps for the stock diffs and have the right ratio for 30 in tires ( km running 29s right now). Oddly enough, the sidekick has IFS, but the diffs will bolt right into a samurai axel housing. Anyway, the gearing change will help the little devil get up to speed, and have more useable torque.

    I also decided to finally put on my driveline mounted parking/Ebrake. Its basically a cable actuated ATV Caliper and rotor mounted to the rear output of the transfer case with a neat little bracket. I haven't had a parking brake for years in this thing after my rear disc swap, despite having this kit for, uh, years. Anyway got that mounted up, need to order a new cable from the parking handle, but that will come. Side bonus! The rotor acts as a driveshaft spacer, helping get more engagement on the rear slip yoke after my lift streched the wheelbase a bit.

    Anyway, got the rear diff in last weekend along with one new axel seal, and swapped in a non grindy transfer case. Need to helicoil the Speedo cable locator bolt thanks to a previoys wrencher stripping it out. Its a tiny M6 bolt guys, doesn't need much torque! Refilled both rear diff and transfer case with fresh GL4 geaeoil and now the truck is driveable at least.

    I just ordered me front axel shafts, to mate with the soon to be installed sidekick differential. Would have done that sooner, but didn't know I needed them. The new diffs have the same spline count on the side gears as the stock samurai rear axels and diff. However, the samurai front axels are smaller spline count, and thus weaker. I didn't catch this difference at first. I could tear the new diff apart and swap side gears, but why go through that work for a weaker setup? Hope thoes axels come in from Oregon soon, would like them by this weekend, but I doubt it.

    Here are a few pics to commemorate the restarting of the project. Feels good working on the little jeeplet again.



    From last winter, poor old neglected Samurai.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

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  19. #38
    toka100's Avatar
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    Just in time to get it running. Snow is flying out my way.

  20. #39
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Yea, I'm looking forward to some snonuts. Both our cars wear Snow tires, so the truck isn't really needed, it's just fun.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

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  22. #40
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Actually drove the thing around today for the first time in years. It does drive better with the higher ratio (lower? Iforger, whatever), in the rear. I don't have to keep it floored to maintain speed above 50mph. The transfer case is much quieter than the one that was in there as well, though it seems to leak a little.

    New front axel shafts and birfield joints come in Tuesday, so next weekend I'll throw them in and be back to 4X4 capable.

    I did find a M6 helicoil kit for the speedo cable bolt, worked like a charm! I also replaced the yoke bolts on the rear output with some 35mm long M8?, 10.9 yellow zinc plated bolts from Fastenall. The stock bolts were just a little too short with the extra thickness of the new Enrake rotor added in. They caught the nuts, but only a few threads.

    Soon as the stupid MR2 sells, I'll get the last things I want before winter. New combo switch to hopefully get my wipers back, a new ebrake cable to connect to the driveline Ebrake, and maybe some window felts, just for fun.
    Last edited by ZombieSatty; 11-15-2015 at 10:06 PM.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

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