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  1. #1

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    Apex'I SAFC-I/SAFC-II Install on ANY S-Series

    Turns out the TSN main page is down now too. Had a couple people PM me about this so I'll just post it here.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------

    Installing a Apex'i SAFC I/II on any Saturn S Series

    So you bought a SAFC, opened the box, looked over the instructions, and found nothing to help you install it into your Saturn S series car, right? Well you've come to the right place. This guide should help you install either SAFC unit into any S series vehicle.

    Installation

    Step one is the installation. For 91-99 cars your PCM should be located in the cabin, relatively easy to get to. For the 00-02's however the PCM is located under the hood between the battery and brake booster.

    First if the display is connected to the wiring harness disconnect it. There's no reason to have the display connected when doing all the wiring. Secondly disconnect the negative battery cable from your battery. The slightest short while cutting PCM wires can render your PCM worthless and a dead car. Plus for all you 00-02 owners you're going want to remove the battery anyway to get good access to your PCM.

    Now you need to figure out the wiring for your car. There were three main wiring schemes based on wiring diagrams available and feedback from others. The wiring is broken down between OBDI, mainly 91-95, and OBDII vehicles, the two schemes are for 96-99 and for 00-02.

    If you look at the SAFC-II wiring harness you will have the following wires. For the SAFC-I simply ignore the purple knock sensor wire:

    Code:
    Wire  Color  		Use for a Saturn
    1   Brown  	  Ground- PCM Side
    2   Black     Ground - Non PCM Side
    3   Red      Ignition (B+)
    4   Green     RPM Signal (Ignition Control CKT)
    5   Pink     Not Used
    6   Orange    Not Used
    7   Yellow    Airflow/Pressure Signal Out to PCM (MAP Sensor)
    8   Purple    Knock Sensor
    9   Blue     Not Used
    10   White     Airflow/Pressure Signal In from Sensor (MAP Sensor)
    11   Grey     Throttle Signal (TPS Input)
    When splicing wires I used the splices supplied. Some people solder their connections or use butt splices. Personally I used what the kit came with and some fancy splicing. For each wire I slowly removed the insulation from about a 1/4" piece using an exacto knife. I kind of shaved the insulation off very carefully. When I was done I had a bare spot in the middle of each wire that looked like this:


    I then took the SAFC wire, laid it parallel to the PCM wire, and spun the bare end around the PCM wiring. I put the crimp connector on and using a wire stripper/crimper I smashed it together:


    Then I electrical taped around the splice. If you want you can simple cut the wire in half, splice in your wire, solder it, and tape it up but what I did looked very clean, was very tight, and most importantly worked.

    There are two main things to be aware of when wiring this that are also noted in the SAFC manual. First is the location of the ground. You MUST splice the Brown ground wire into your cars ground on the PCM side then move out exactly one inch and splice in the Black ground wire. Do not ground them to the same spot, and do not splice them more then an inch away. Here's what mine looked like after I taped up both connections:


    You don't need to be completely exact but aim for one inch if you want accurate readings. Secondly is the MAP sensor. Use the plugs provided as the SAFC manual shows so if you decide to remove the unit from the loop you can easily reconnect the MAP sensor into the PCM. More on this and other potential pitfalls at the end.

    So where do you land all these wires? That's where the vehicles year comes into play. Each group of years PCM is slightly different so reference the table below for your year. Also they have different plugs going into the PCM, though amazingly Saturn used the same colors throughout the years except for the ground on the newer model. Follow this guide:

    OBDI Saturn Wiring

    Code:
    Wire on SAFC 	  91-95 Saturn
     1 Brown      C-1 (Black/White)
     2 Black      C-1 (Black/White)
     3 Red       A-7 (Pink)
     4 Green      C-11 (White)
     5 Pink      Not Used
     6 Orange     Not Used
     7 Yellow     B-9 (Light Green)
     8 Purple*     A-12 (Dark Blue)
     9 Blue      Not Used
     10 White      B-9 (Light Green)
     11 Gray      A-8 (Dark Blue)
    * - Ignore 8 (knock sensor) if wiring a SAFC-I

    A small example of my super duper Photoshop skills:

    OBDII Saturn Wiring

    Code:
    Wire on SAFC    96-99 Saturn		    00-02 Saturn
     1 Brown     J2 - B6 (Black/White)     J1 - Pin 76 (Tan/White)
     2 Black     J2 - B6 (Black/White)     J1 - Pin 76 (Tan/White)
     3 Red      J1 - C12 (Pink)        J2 - Pin 23 (Pink)
     4 Green     J2 B7 (White)        J1 - Pin 46 (White)
     5 Pink     Not Used           Not Used
     6 Orange    Not Used           Not Used
     7 Yellow     J2 A7 (Light Green)     J1 - Pin 3 (Light Green)
     8 Purple*    J3 C10 (Dark Blue)      J1 - Pin 28 (Light Blue)
     9 Blue     Not Used           Not Used
     10 White     J2A7 (Light Green)      J1 - Pin 3 (Light Green)
     11 Gray     J2A6 (Dark Blue)       J1 - Pin 1 (Dark Blue)
    * - Ignore 8 (knock sensor) if wiring a SAFC-I

    96-99 PCM: J1-Large Blue, J2-Small Blue, J3-Large Brown (Man) or Pink (Auto)
    00-02 PCM: J1-Large Black, J2-Small Black

    Next on to the Setup ->
    -Allan
    Bought a 2001 Saturn SC2 new, sold it in 2008, bought it back in 2017. I don't know why.

    The carbon-metabolizing physical presence that currently houses my conscious and those physical manifestations of my comrades all possess as our common residential abode the interior of a mid-visible spectrum double hulled buoyancy controlled ship of war!

  2. #2

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    Setup

    Step two is setup. I'm going to cover setup of both the SAFC I and II in one procedure because honestly there is so much in common with them there's no reason not to. For the most part you will use up and down arrows to change values, left to go back, and right to go forward or select. If you ever are unsure check your manual.

    First hook your negative battery cable back up. Second turn your ignition to the on position but DO NOT start your car. The SAFC should display a nice blue splash screen then list three options: Monitor, Settings, and Etc. Scroll down to Etc and select it.

    ETC Menu

    This menu is where we will be setting up the sensor types and configuration information. Start with the first selection, Sensor Type. The Saturn's use a pressure sensor so select this option in the list then press next or right. The next setting will determine how the SAFC reads this pressure sensor. For most cars this will be set to 04 IN / 04 Out.

    After setting the pressure sensor press the back button or left a couple times to get back to the etc menu. Select "Car Select" and next. For the Cylinder (Cyl) setting use "4" for 91-95, "12" for 96-99, and "2" for 00-02. For all models make sure the arrow points up and to the right.

    Now we need to set how the graph will be displayed. In other words how the graph will look compared to the values received. Press back or left once and look for "Grph Scale" for the SAFC-I or "Disp Scale" for the SAFC-II. Select it and press next or right. For Pr (pressure scale) leave it at the default value of 760mmHg. Ne is the maximum RPM. For our cars this should be set to 7000. If you Saturn can rev past this then set it to a few hundred past your cars redline. Next thing to change here is the Cr for correction ratio, which should be set to 30%.

    Last thing to change is the VFD brightness. Press back or left until you back to the etc menu and select "VFD Bright". Set the day, dim, and night settings as you see fit. Personally mine are 99, 60, and 15. This is one of the few settings you may need to play with depending on where it"s mounted and how easy it is to read for you. When done press back or left until you're back to the main menu

    Settings Menu

    The settings menu, strangely enough, contains most of the settings. The first thing to change is the throttle point. This is what tells the SAFC the difference between lo and hi throttle. Select "TH Point" and press next or right. The two settings are low and high. Low should be set between 20% and 30%. High should be set between 60% and 80%. Start with 25% and 75% and see how those settings work for you first before playing. Press back or left to get back to the settings menu when done

    Next we can set which points in our RPM range to make corrections. Here is where one of the main differences comes into play between the SAFC I and II. The SAFC-I has a total of 8 points; the SAFC-II has 12 that you can adjust. Select "NE Points" and you will see a list of RPM points. Since I'm using mine with performance cams, which cause a rich condition and rough idle at lower revs I wanted a closer range on the low side so I could lean it out a little more precisely. Plus my Saturn should never see revolutions over 6500 so I don't need to leave the default of 7000+ in there on the high end. I would suggest starting at 800 on the low side and 6600 on the high for both units, and evening out from there. Just select each point with the right or next then go up and down to raise and lower. The points on my SAFC-II looks like this, giving me a little finer tuning on the low end:

    Ne01: 800
    Ne02: 1200
    Ne03: 1600
    Ne04: 2000
    Ne05: 2400
    Ne06: 3000
    Ne07: 3600
    Ne08: 4200
    Ne09: 4800
    Ne10: 5400
    Ne11: 6000
    Ne12: 6600

    Once these are selected press back or left to get back to the settings menu.

    The next setting to verify is the Dec.-Air setting. This is used on a hot wire type airflow sensor, which we do not use. Select with next or right and make sure that "Thr" is set to ****, which means not used. Press back or left to get to the settings menu.

    There's one last setting for those with the SAFC-II, the knock sensor. First off press left or back to the main menu and select "Monitor". On the next screen select 1 channel, press down until "Rev" is selected, and then next. It should display a nice engine revolution display. Start the car and let it idle. The display should match your tachometer exactly. Rev it slightly to make sure. If it doesn't you need to change your cylinder setting, see the troubleshooting section at the end. Do not try to setup the knock sensor until the revolutions match or the knock sensor will not be setup correctly. Once you have verified it is correct press back to the main menu, and select settings. Select "Knk Set" and press right or next. The car needs to be running, which it should be because you just verified the revolutions, right? Good. Move the cursor to the "1: 0" line. Next to it you will see it says "1500". Press the gas and try to hold the tachometer to a value between 1300 and 1700 RPMs. You should see your revs as the top number. Once you have it steady press right or next once. It will put a number in place of the 0 so it will read something like "1: 26". Now move down to the "2: 0" line and do the same with the tach between 3200 and 3700. It will enter a number in again like "2: 38". You've now calibrated the SAFC-II with your knock sensor. Press the left or back button once.

    Next on to the Tuning ->
    -Allan
    Bought a 2001 Saturn SC2 new, sold it in 2008, bought it back in 2017. I don't know why.

    The carbon-metabolizing physical presence that currently houses my conscious and those physical manifestations of my comrades all possess as our common residential abode the interior of a mid-visible spectrum double hulled buoyancy controlled ship of war!

  3. #3

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    Tuning

    Your SAFC-I or II is now setup for your car. If you go into the monitor you should be able to display the current revolutions and throttle position and if you rev the engine both should display correctly. Now its time to tune! This procedure "should" only be done on a dyno, although people do street tune their cars. I will say that I don't recommend this but if you do decide to try it make sure you can tune in third gear somewhere and have a buddy in the passenger seat tuning, or you tune while he/she drives. Whatever way you decide to do it a wide band O2 sensor is a must. You will be adjusting the amount of fuel your engine receives at different RPM points and you can easily cause a lean condition resulting in detonation and a dead engine.

    You will make these changes from the Settings menu, then selecting either "Hi-Thrt" to adjust the curve when under hi throttle or "Lo-Thrtl" to adjust the curve under low throttle. These hi and lo points are what you set them at a couple steps ago. Left and right should cycle you through your rev points, up and down should adjust the fuel. I can't tell you how to tune your car as every car is different but I can give some suggestions I have collected from myself and others:

    1. Lo throttle, at least the first couple points, can be tuned in park/neural. This is very helpful to even out a rough idle caused by performance cams.
    2. Aim for an A/F ratio of 13.1 for the most power throughout your RPM range.
    3. Always aim richer instead of leaner when adjusting the hi-throttle curve as that's your fuel under load.
    4. Hold the RPM you intend to tune and adjust it until you reach your desired A/F ratio and it stays steady. This will be your low throttle so use this as a guide for your hi throttle. See step 3.
    5. If using a SAFC-II you can save two full sets of correction profiles under Settings -> Datafile. This is helpful to set a max power N/A profile then a slightly richer profile for nitrous so you can reduce the risks of detonation. Check your manual for more information.

    Troubleshooting

    Luckily my install went very smooth except for one item and most other peoples seemed to go smooth also. But sometimes there are problems and hopefully the answer is somewhere below:

    Problem: SES Light comes on
    Solution: There are many reasons for this but two common ones I found. The first is you may throw a code when tuning because the PCM is looking for values from sensors that it's not getting, and well it confuses the PCM. For the most part you can ignore the SES light while tuning and reset it when done. Second reason, and I did this one, is once the SAFC is wired in the MAP sensor relies on the SAFC harness being connected. Disconnect the harness and start up the car and you will get a MAP sensor failure. When I was installing mine I backed the car half way out of the garage so I can get under the hood easily. I setup the SAFC and then disconnected it and brought it inside because I wasn't sure where to mount it and figured I'd mount it later or the next day. Later I started up the car to move it back into the garage and got the SES. I realized after a couple hours what I had done and just unplugged my negative battery for a couple minutes to reset the code.

    Problem: Revolutions are displaying wrong.
    Solution: Change your cylinder setting. It should be an even number, every Saturn I have heard of either uses 2, 4, or 12. Try these settings and check the display. This is a setting that can be changed while the car is running as long as you haven't made any corrections, which you shouldn't have until verifying this was right.

    Problem: In the monitor for the MAP sensor you are reading boost and not vacuum.
    Solution: The Sensor type is not right for your car. The only exception I have found so far is having a SAFC-II on an OBDI car (91 - 95). In this case if you find that you read boost when viewing the MAP sensor status try using 07/07 instead of 04/04. Make sure you change this setting with the engine off as changing the sensor type when running can cause your engine to see a rush of air or a lack of, causing a sudden rich or lean condition, either not being good for your engine.

    Credits

    I installed the SAFC-II on my 01 SC2 using the 00 wiring diagrams found in the download section on TSN so that was verified by me as working but the setup was a combination of S.Bretz guide and the one on the saturnspeed.com site, plus the SAFC manual. Speaking of thanks to Sam for the wiring on the OBDI, which allowed me to verify my 91 - 95 wiring. Also I want to thank Matt for the 07/07 sensor info and Nikongod for the 96 wiring, which when combined with the 97 wiring diagrams verified the 96 - 99 group. Hopefully this will serve the Saturn community well as an all-inclusive guide for the SAFC I/II. If anything is missing or you have something to add please feel free to PM me. Thanks.

    -Allan
    -Allan
    Bought a 2001 Saturn SC2 new, sold it in 2008, bought it back in 2017. I don't know why.

    The carbon-metabolizing physical presence that currently houses my conscious and those physical manifestations of my comrades all possess as our common residential abode the interior of a mid-visible spectrum double hulled buoyancy controlled ship of war!

  4. #4
    dream36realms's Avatar
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    I don't know if you remember but i had issues finding the ground on my PCM. It was located in a diferent location than yours, I just thought I'd put that out

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by dream36realms
    I don't know if you remember but i had issues finding the ground on my PCM. It was located in a diferent location than yours, I just thought I'd put that out
    Yours was either one over or a couple (73 if I remember). Colors the important part. Always use a multimeter if your unsure of course.
    -Allan
    Bought a 2001 Saturn SC2 new, sold it in 2008, bought it back in 2017. I don't know why.

    The carbon-metabolizing physical presence that currently houses my conscious and those physical manifestations of my comrades all possess as our common residential abode the interior of a mid-visible spectrum double hulled buoyancy controlled ship of war!

  6. #6
    dream36realms's Avatar
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    yeah it was over a couple I thought it may have been 72, once I check it later I'll post it up so you can add it to your bank of info. I had other electrical issues when it comes to wire locations, so I must have an "off" model

  7. #7
    6S Staff slowion2's Avatar
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    sweet, thanks Allan! [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/smile.gif[/img]

    I did a wiring chart for 03-04 2.2 Ions, I should see if I can find it and add it to this thread.
    -Vinny

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    [quote="Schizzo97SC2"]sweet, thanks Allan!

  9. #9
    6S Staff slowion2's Avatar
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    lol hey if someone wants to use it n/a with bolt ons it will work, but I wouldn't suggest boost above 10psi

    basically the same advice like with the s-series haha [img]{SMILIES_PATH}/wink.gif[/img]
    -Vinny

  10. #10

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    once this thread is completed, I will transfer the photos to our server and text to a new tech article
    [img width=600 height=150]http://www.sixthsphere.com/storage2/images/wejag665buljx09mu77e.jpg[/img]<br />99SL2 w/97SC2M Engine/Trans Swap, CAI, 2.25 Custom Exhaust

  11. #11
    KoolerSL2's Avatar
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    does anyone have the PDF files of the full PCM wiring schematics from TSN?
    i had em before i had to do my PC wipe.
    now i could really use em.
    2011 Ford Flex Limited EcoBoost AWD
    TBM / ISM roof Loaded all options
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    1999 Saturn SC2 bright red SOLD
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  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by KoolerSL2
    does anyone have the PDF files of the full PCM wiring schematics from TSN?
    i had em before i had to do my PC wipe.
    now i could really use em.
    Yes I just happen to have saved those too:

    http://www.sixthsphere.com/storage/6...pcm-wiring.zip

    -Allan
    -Allan
    Bought a 2001 Saturn SC2 new, sold it in 2008, bought it back in 2017. I don't know why.

    The carbon-metabolizing physical presence that currently houses my conscious and those physical manifestations of my comrades all possess as our common residential abode the interior of a mid-visible spectrum double hulled buoyancy controlled ship of war!

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    Thanks sprint. I was quite pissed when I saw TSN was gone! Theirs was fool proof. I can hopefully get it wired in this weekend. The I can enjoy some N/A power from my crappy 9 bolt head 99 engine. BLow up the turbo SOHC I am making then know how not to blow up the DOHC I plan on. 3-5 psi on SOHC. The 6-7 psi on DOHC.
    In case you didn't know , YOU DON'T FUCKING KNOW EVERYTHING!!!!!
    #1 drunk poster and breaker of crankshafts.
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    Just got it wired up. Thanks everybody. I had to set my cylinder selection to 2. It reads about 100rpms lower than the dash tach does but it's close.
    In case you didn't know , YOU DON'T FUCKING KNOW EVERYTHING!!!!!
    #1 drunk poster and breaker of crankshafts.
    Flat black is not paint , it's a fucking primer you douchefags!
    I can't hear your loud pipes over my my louder stereo! F U stereotypical harley owners!

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by SL2clone
    Just got it wired up. Thanks everybody. I had to set my cylinder selection to 2. It reads about 100rpms lower than the dash tach does but it's close.
    Your dash tach is off. Do you have aftermarket gauges?

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    I have what started life as a DEAD stripped SL. Thus the name SL2Clone. 99 twin cam engine and PCM. 95MP2 trans with welded diff pin.
    I was told by Low Saturn that my tach and speedo would be off. Well I can tell you this. When my car hits the rev limiter it is right at 6750 according to the dash tach. My speedo reads the same speed on the same roads in the same places just as it did with the SOHC engine and PCM. I have stock gauges in the dash. Might pull the wrench and SES light. PCM is looking for the air pump my car isn't wired for.
    ANy ideas why I had to set my cylinder setting to 2 instead of 12? And what does the arrow next to the cylinder setting mean or do?
    Next question. Why would my AFC read + pressure? It should never read anything higher than 0 correct? Pressure is more than 0 and vacuum is less than 0. I am not running a turbo and no way a CAI can force enough air to cause a pressure reading. Or is that just the way this thing works?
    In case you didn't know , YOU DON'T FUCKING KNOW EVERYTHING!!!!!
    #1 drunk poster and breaker of crankshafts.
    Flat black is not paint , it's a fucking primer you douchefags!
    I can't hear your loud pipes over my my louder stereo! F U stereotypical harley owners!

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    air in and out seeting. read near the bottom and it says try the 7 / 7.
    thats what i had to do to keep from reading positive readings.
    2011 Ford Flex Limited EcoBoost AWD
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    Roush : MeganRacing : Magnaflow : StainlessWorks : Powerstop : AJPTurbo Tuned : 475hp/540tq (Grocery Getter)
    1999 Saturn SC2 bright red SOLD
    2014 Ford F-150 Tremor TBM

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    yay, i installed this and yay it worked great, now i just need my WBO2 sensor
    92 TSI- Dead<br />94 Sc2- Dead<br />02 Sc2- Mods: WAI, Hotshot Header, Thermal Catback, SAFCII, Solid&#39;s all around, Front &amp; Rear STB&#39;s

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    6S Staff redhotFTW!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SL2clone
    I have what started life as a DEAD stripped SL. Thus the name SL2Clone. 99 twin cam engine and PCM. 95MP2 trans with welded diff pin.
    I was told by Low Saturn that my tach and speedo would be off. Well I can tell you this. When my car hits the rev limiter it is right at 6750 according to the dash tach. My speedo reads the same speed on the same roads in the same places just as it did with the SOHC engine and PCM. I have stock gauges in the dash. Might pull the wrench and SES light. PCM is looking for the air pump my car isn't wired for.
    ANy ideas why I had to set my cylinder setting to 2 instead of 12? And what does the arrow next to the cylinder setting mean or do?
    Next question. Why would my AFC read + pressure? It should never read anything higher than 0 correct? Pressure is more than 0 and vacuum is less than 0. I am not running a turbo and no way a CAI can force enough air to cause a pressure reading. Or is that just the way this thing works?

    the arrow should point up and to the right...this tells the afc that voltage is higher at WOT. Set your cylinders at 12, with the arrow pointing up and to the right, set the pressure at 7/7 and make sure that hot wire and flap are both at 0/0. BUT SET HOTWIRE AND FLAP AT 0/0 AND THEN SET YOUR PRESSURE. if you set pressure and then hotwire and flap it goes off of those settings and your car with read -760 turned off. you should read between -13 and - 25 with you ignition at on and the car not running. then it is set right and you will not hit positive. normal idle should be around -500 and go as high as -10 at WOT
    Black 2006 Cobalt SS/SC
    ZZP | GMPP |EBC |GM Stg2

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    Re: Apex'I SAFC-I/SAFC-II Install on ANY S-Series

    the SAFCII is saying my car is knocking, but i happen to think that its not, On start (its nice outside) it starts at 4, but quickly goes up to 9-13 Im thinking the knock sensor is set up wrong but no positive. If you go to sensor check it shows knock sensor for me its 00099 or 00100 for the reading, what is everyone else getting for this?
    92 TSI- Dead<br />94 Sc2- Dead<br />02 Sc2- Mods: WAI, Hotshot Header, Thermal Catback, SAFCII, Solid&#39;s all around, Front &amp; Rear STB&#39;s

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