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  1. #1
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    Twin Intake Cam Mod --- keywords: dohc two intake cams 2 *

    This article courtesy of Natedogg


    Twin Intake Cam Mod

    What you need:

    Intake camshaft (make sure the cam lobes are within spec)
    Cam sprocket. It doesn't matter which sprocket, they're both the same.
    A grinder
    A marker

    First, you have to grind a nub off on the exhaust side of the head. The intake cam won't fit without it ground down.

    Where the nub is:


    Why you need to grind it down:



    Alright, this last pic shows how the cam is normally lined up, with the alignment hole and the pip on the sprocket at TDC.

    With an intake cam,you have to turn the cam so it's 180* out from what the exhaust cam would normally be. So you put the pip so it's at BDC, NOT TDC!. Then retard it 1 tooth clockwise.



    TIP:

    Draw a line from the pip to the exact tooth that's 180* on the other side. Then mark the tooth that is 1 tooth CLOCKWISE from your 180* mark. That is your new TDC mark.

    The redline shows the 180 tooth, and the yellow mark shows the {9} degree retard. Notice the pip mark on the top of the red line that shows the cam is at TDC

    I wouldn't expect a huge increase in power. I think it would give a decent boost in power, while keeping the idle smooth. It's no heavy grind, but it will do well if you want a small boost for cheap in your DD without the lopy idle of some cams.

    You'd be surprised what the extra 5* of duration and .01" of lift will do.

    Update with more pics:

    I've actually done this now, and I can say it runs smoother. Not sure about the power gains since I did a rebuild at the same time with other mods. It is very, very smooth though.

    Nub ground down:




    Cam sprocket remarked for timing. The black dot is 180* off from the stock timing pip. The punch mark/black line is one tooth clockwise. THAT NEW PUNCH MARK/BLACK LINE IS THE NEW TIMING MARK.



    I'm not sure how you would do this in the car.

    1. Grinding the nub down with the head on the car would cause metal shavings to go all over your engine. That would not be good

    2. The sprocket has to be removed in order to turn it 180*. As soon as you do that, the tensioner will want to take up the slack. The tinyest little bit of slack given, the tensioner will take it up. You would have to devise a really cool way to not allow any slack.

    So you would have to remove the head, and disassemble it to avoid getting metal shavings all over it. Then clean it really good when you're done grinding.

    And you would have to remove the timing chain cover so you can draw back and hold the tensioner. Which, if you're removing the head, you should have removed the cover anyway.



    *EDITED for third gen*

    The nub on the head doesn't exist like it does on the 2 older generations. So there is no need to grind down anything
    Last edited by Natedogg; 06-21-2013 at 04:08 PM.
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  2. #2
    6S Moderator Natedogg's Avatar
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    This pic was provided by Hein for a bit of clarification on where the new mark should go on the exhaust side:

    Current: 2015 Fiesta ST - Full stage 3 bolt-ons and a 93 octane custom Stratified tune at 27 PSI.

    Former modded N/A 97 SL2, unmolested 96 SC2, and turbo 95 SL2.
    99' SL2 Turbo - Parted out, returned to stock years ago, still on the road but everything keeps breaking.
    00' SC2 DD - SOLD
    02' SL1 - On loan to someone

  3. #3

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    What are the pros and cons of doing this mod?

  4. #4
    HNIC SC2Sick's Avatar
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    Very much not worth the hassle IMO. Get a set of actual cams
    Sixthsphere.com Owner
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  6. #5
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    +1 Not worth it, unless you HAVE to have stock parts for whatever reason.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

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