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  • nuts DIY welded onto shifter

    3 15.00%
  • drill holes and bolt a bracket to shifter

    17 85.00%
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  1. #41
    satysw2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Q. View Post
    The reliability this offers means I will never worry about it again. So it pays for itself.
    Feel the same. I trust Hein. Never heard any complaints about any of his products, probably because of his attention to detail. Count me in still as well, and keep us posted.

  2. #42
    Sight Picture's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update. Let us know when the final price is set!
    '94 SL2 Manual (Parts stack growing), '06 Ion 2.4, '01 Honda F4i somewhere.

  3. #43
    FoxDude0486's Avatar
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    Just read this for the first time and the other thread. Surprised that only one person asked about the VMS shifter with these cables lol. I'll be considering it based off final price and the last day to put an order in as I'm trying to delay new purchases as long as possible due to other things going on with the house.

    To work on the point about extra effort needed to shift, There is a little more effort with the VMS shifter, but I can still pansy it with three fingers between all the gears. Grandma could still shift the car without to much effort. Losing some extra slop with these cables would be greatly appreciated though lol.
    Last edited by FoxDude0486; 04-17-2012 at 07:22 AM.
    2013 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT with Trifecta premium fuel tune:
    Saturn Sc2 (No longer owned):

  4. #44
    Sight Picture's Avatar
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    I'm definitely considering going with vms's shifter. Good to hear some additional feedback. After Hein's comment on stiffness, I thought it would be too much.
    '94 SL2 Manual (Parts stack growing), '06 Ion 2.4, '01 Honda F4i somewhere.

  5. #45
    Jamie Q.'s Avatar
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    cars going in the shop soon, any new news. It would be an oppurtune time for me to install them.
    Fixing a Saturn can be like reaching into a bag of scorpions and hoping for the tootsie roll.

    AMR coilovers w/pillowball mounts, AMR FTB, AMR RST, Quaife, ACT clutch, HR con rods with JPC max bore pistons, Thermal exhaust, Hotshot header, AEM CAI, and I just want to run around tearing my cloths off, screaming beligerently, and spitting, and twitching, and foaming; because its finally done.

  6. #46

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    Sorry this is being delayed. I really need to prototype the bracket and that's going to take a bit.

    I'm not sure this will work well with a short shifter where the length of the arm below the pivot
    has been lengthened. It may be OK if the cable has enough usable stroke so that the extra hole
    in the arm on the transmission isn't needed. I just need to make sure before moving forward.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

  7. #47
    Jamie Q.'s Avatar
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    So are you prototyping a short shift application or oem shifter application; I'm confused about what product is being developed now...
    Fixing a Saturn can be like reaching into a bag of scorpions and hoping for the tootsie roll.

    AMR coilovers w/pillowball mounts, AMR FTB, AMR RST, Quaife, ACT clutch, HR con rods with JPC max bore pistons, Thermal exhaust, Hotshot header, AEM CAI, and I just want to run around tearing my cloths off, screaming beligerently, and spitting, and twitching, and foaming; because its finally done.

  8. #48

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    This buy in is for a set of higher quality shift cables. The cables are 2" stroke and the input to the transmission requires just over that; -about 2 1/8 iirc. The cables I am using have a little more than their rated 2" stroke but there is also some lost motion.

    So to make sure there would be enough travel, I drilled another hole in the arm on the transmission to reduce the input stroke to under 2". The only mod I made to the shifter was to cut off the shaft above the pivot to move the knob down. So it is NOT a true "short shifter" where the arm below the pivot has been lengthened and sometimes the plate is moved up to keep the cable lined up. Drilling the other hole on the arm at the transmission accomplishes the same thing as a true short shifter. So both together could be a problem. I have not tested that combination.

    The other hold up is the bracket that connects the shift cables to the shifter bracket. It can be welded but that makes the installation harder so I'm going ahead with the bracket. It's taking me a while to get it prototyped. When I get the bracket made, I might be able to test the installation with a short shifter as well.

    I would suggest re-reading this thread and then feel free to ask more questions.
    Last edited by hein; 05-12-2012 at 03:30 PM.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

  9. #49
    Sight Picture's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update.
    '94 SL2 Manual (Parts stack growing), '06 Ion 2.4, '01 Honda F4i somewhere.

  10. #50
    Jamie Q.'s Avatar
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    Thanks Hein, your May 12th post had me confused.
    Fixing a Saturn can be like reaching into a bag of scorpions and hoping for the tootsie roll.

    AMR coilovers w/pillowball mounts, AMR FTB, AMR RST, Quaife, ACT clutch, HR con rods with JPC max bore pistons, Thermal exhaust, Hotshot header, AEM CAI, and I just want to run around tearing my cloths off, screaming beligerently, and spitting, and twitching, and foaming; because its finally done.

  11. #51
    FoxDude0486's Avatar
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    In for bracket cables. Let me know. I have the vms short shifter and would gladly test the combination of the two. I'll have to see about the drilling of the trans arm for space as I haven't looked back there since I replaced the cables last year.
    2013 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT with Trifecta premium fuel tune:
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  12. #52
    The Fucking Ginger Canadian
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    Not going to take over Hein's thread here, but I've got a pair of nice shiny bolt in brackets sitting in my desk at work.........there is going to be some progress with this very shortly, but I'll let Hein fill you in.

    Jer
    Daily : 2011 Subaru WRX wagon
    Ex daily driver : 2000 SW2 5spd, First S-series w/Hein's true A-arm front suspension, First sedan/wagon w/coupe front end conversion, boxed in rear subframe, SPS 3-way rear swaybar, Corado 11" rotor swap w/Wilwood superlight 2 front calipers, rear disk swap, Deeb's built engine w/dual intake cam's, OBX header, High flow cat, Thermal exhaust, MSD wires and coils, AEM CAI, OBX rad hoses, custom short throw shifter, black leather swap, black interior swap and there's a stereo somewhere in there.
    Ex daily driver : 86 Fiero GT, 3800SC 4spd manual *SOLD*
    Project : 85 Fiero GT, with the heart and soul of a 04 ION redline

    Check out my project car "Fierion"

    www.coppertopautosports.blogspot.com

  13. #53
    Sight Picture's Avatar
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    Nice. Any word if we're going to have to still drill the hole on the tranny arm?
    '94 SL2 Manual (Parts stack growing), '06 Ion 2.4, '01 Honda F4i somewhere.

  14. #54
    Jamie Q.'s Avatar
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    I believe part of this is that you have to drill the shifter arm ourselves.
    Fixing a Saturn can be like reaching into a bag of scorpions and hoping for the tootsie roll.

    AMR coilovers w/pillowball mounts, AMR FTB, AMR RST, Quaife, ACT clutch, HR con rods with JPC max bore pistons, Thermal exhaust, Hotshot header, AEM CAI, and I just want to run around tearing my cloths off, screaming beligerently, and spitting, and twitching, and foaming; because its finally done.

  15. #55
    FoxDude0486's Avatar
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    I'm actually kind of excited to mix this with the short shifter. Especially if I get the shifter itself firmed up so it doesn't have so much play in it.
    2013 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT with Trifecta premium fuel tune:
    Saturn Sc2 (No longer owned):

  16. #56

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    If the ends of the short shifter arms (where the cables attach) are in the same place as they are stock, then these cables should work. Anything else could require some modification.

    Moving the hole inward on the transmission arm is necessary because the new cable has less overall stroke than the stock cable. It's not related to (nor can it be compensated for by) the shifter.

    To tighten up a shifter:

    1. Reduce the play around the gimbal cage with a thin shim. You'll have to drill out the rivets holding the block and replace them with some hardware. I use a mylar shim but maybe a piece of aluminum can would work. Just wrap it around the outside of the cage and stick it back in the block. Don't forget the O-ring. Lube the ball/cage with some white lithium grease.

    2. Replace the rivet for the floppy thing with a 5/16 bolt that is not thread to head. You want the un-threaded body of the bolt to be the pivot. You'll have to drill (preferably ream) the holes. Use a top lock and tighten it to squeeze the channel together to remove play. It still needs to move freely so don't over tighten. White lithium grease here too.

    3. Rotate the plastic pivot insert for the side arm 90 degrees. grease it.

    I'm sure there is more. Be sure to use locking nuts on all shifter linkage and components. I prefer stainless hardware.
    Last edited by hein; 06-04-2012 at 12:13 PM.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

  17. #57
    FoxDude0486's Avatar
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    I'm going to have to read all that while the shifter is in my face. lol

    My shifter has the extended arm as well. How would you think that would affect your cables? Are they less flexible, or does it have to do with the other end of things?
    2013 Chevrolet Cruze Eco 6MT with Trifecta premium fuel tune:
    Saturn Sc2 (No longer owned):

  18. #58

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    The effect of extended arms is not known. It needs to be fit up and tested.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

  19. #59
    The Fucking Ginger Canadian
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    When I get mine going I'm going to have to do a couple of those things you mentioned Hein, my shifter is pretty good, but there is still a little sloop that I'd like to clean up, probably in the main ball bushing.

    I'm hoping to have a bit more of the mock up done this week, really busy but I'll try to fit it in.

    Jer
    Daily : 2011 Subaru WRX wagon
    Ex daily driver : 2000 SW2 5spd, First S-series w/Hein's true A-arm front suspension, First sedan/wagon w/coupe front end conversion, boxed in rear subframe, SPS 3-way rear swaybar, Corado 11" rotor swap w/Wilwood superlight 2 front calipers, rear disk swap, Deeb's built engine w/dual intake cam's, OBX header, High flow cat, Thermal exhaust, MSD wires and coils, AEM CAI, OBX rad hoses, custom short throw shifter, black leather swap, black interior swap and there's a stereo somewhere in there.
    Ex daily driver : 86 Fiero GT, 3800SC 4spd manual *SOLD*
    Project : 85 Fiero GT, with the heart and soul of a 04 ION redline

    Check out my project car "Fierion"

    www.coppertopautosports.blogspot.com

  20. #60
    lilcraigford's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hein View Post
    The effect of extended arms is not known. It needs to be fit up and tested.
    I will be interested to see how these work with my shifter. With just the helm joints on the interior side it is pretty tight.
    '94 SL2: The Detail Junky (Will it ever run? Does it even exist?)
    '95 SW2: The Daily Junky 3 (388k Champion)
    '95 SL2: The Daily Junky 5 (aka Snow Junky 2)

    The Detail Junky Build

    "Saturn people like a different kind of Escargot: Redefining the association between Saturns and Snails."

    For Sale Thread (Current Items: 9-Bolt Head, 9-Bolt Timing Cover, 5-Bolt Timing Cover)
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