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  1. #1
    siris's Avatar
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    Clutch Damper Removal

    After reading about other car platforms removing their clutch hydraulic damper for a better clutch pedal feel, I decided to look into removing ours.
    So I started with an old set of hydros that had gotten air into them.
    After discovering that the line is just polyethylene tubing, and that Saturn had just used hose-barb fittings on them, a trip to Lowe's netted me a 3/16th hose-barb coupling. Item #25677 for $2.29+tax. Which for the sake of argument is a 1/64th smaller than the stock barb.
    I cut the line from the master cylinder to the damper right behind the damper fitting, and the slave cylinder side right after the first bend coming from the damper.
    I then used a butane lighter to soften the tubing so I could put the correct bend in the tubing from the master cylinder, and so I could press the hose-barb fitting in the two lines. Which is a PAIN in the ass by the way.
    I will drill an eighth inch hole and tap it for a bleeder screw in the top of the slave cylinder so I can bleed everything.
    In hindsight I think a properly sized compression coupling would work better than the hose barb, especially for you guys not running a stock pressure plate.
    Edit: I was able to bench bleed the system without a bleed screw. I pulled the piston out of the slave and let it gravity feed, made sure the slave was completely full and slid the piston/spring assembly back in the cylinder.
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    Last edited by siris; 04-23-2012 at 06:18 PM.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  2. #2
    punkboySL2's Avatar
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    Interested to see how it performs back on the car. I never really had issues with mine even with the 6 puck.
    98 SL2m - Intake, Raceland coilovers, daily driver
    94 SW2a>m - slammed and boosted 9 PSI - sloppymechanics.com inspired. Now owned by Importsdontlikeme.
    94 SC2m - Build in progress, Ford EDIS, 720cc's, stock engine, MS2v3.57 7 on the road again

  3. #3
    siris's Avatar
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    I'm curious about how it will perform as well. I will mount it all up in the morning and stomp the shit out of the clutch pedal for a while, measure the depth, and check for leaks if any. Worst thing is I'm out a few hours and a shitty mud covered hydro assembly.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  4. #4

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    You probably should have put an elbow in place of your straight coupling so you didn't have to ghetto bend the tubing.

    Great work though, I am intrigued by this.

    Oh, for what it's worth, the aftermarket units come with a bleeder port.

  5. #5
    siris's Avatar
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    Most do, from what I can research 91's and some 92 OEM had a bleeder too. Ill take a picture of it installed, an elbow wouldn't have worked. I could have cut it past the elbow and installed 2 couplings with a piece of the scrap inbetween.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  6. #6
    siris's Avatar
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    Update: installed in car then beat the snot out of the clutch pedal. Checked clutch run out with an old dipstick and it had right at 0.525" of movement. Took it for a ride and the clutch engages about 2-3" from the floor and has a crisp on/off feel from the pedal.

    Pedal effort has increased but not substantially. Will update the open with installed photos when I can get on the computer, currently on my phone.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  7. #7

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    Meh, good on ya for sacking up, but I never felt like the Saturn clutch pedal felt bad.
    [16:02] Ferrari166mm: so you&#39;re finally getting into real cars.<br />[16:02] adamkob32: I&#39;ve just had enough of racing a 100HP nutsack
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  8. #8
    Jamie Q.'s Avatar
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    Yeah same here, after installing the ACT clutch it was alot firmer of course but to be honest. I always felt the clutch feel for that saturn was better than my 350z stock. When I switched from the Saturn to the Z between drives, I would almost slam my foot through the Z floor. But yeah Saturn always felt more direct than the Z.
    Fixing a Saturn can be like reaching into a bag of scorpions and hoping for the tootsie roll.

    AMR coilovers w/pillowball mounts, AMR FTB, AMR RST, Quaife, ACT clutch, HR con rods with JPC max bore pistons, Thermal exhaust, Hotshot header, AEM CAI, and I just want to run around tearing my cloths off, screaming beligerently, and spitting, and twitching, and foaming; because its finally done.

  9. #9
    siris's Avatar
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    Maybe I've just had shitty hydros in the past, but with my car I would have to push the clutch to the floorboard to get it to disengage. Now I can shift by pushing the clutch half stroke.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  10. #10
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    SOunds like you had shity hydraulics.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  11. #11
    Jamie Q.'s Avatar
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    Indeed, you had shitty hydraulics glad to hear you are rolling good again
    Fixing a Saturn can be like reaching into a bag of scorpions and hoping for the tootsie roll.

    AMR coilovers w/pillowball mounts, AMR FTB, AMR RST, Quaife, ACT clutch, HR con rods with JPC max bore pistons, Thermal exhaust, Hotshot header, AEM CAI, and I just want to run around tearing my cloths off, screaming beligerently, and spitting, and twitching, and foaming; because its finally done.

  12. #12
    siris's Avatar
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    Bump from the dead, over 3 years later, still rocking this. Now on a act pp, clutch is completely disengaged with <2" of pedal travel.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

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  14. #13

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    Was digging for part numbers to run a different master and stainless braided line like ben and @S.Bretz did in his build thread. My stock clutch fully disengages at about 3 inches of travel right now.

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