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  1. #41
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    I tried it with a different cap. It held pressure this time(when hot) but I need to still do a cold pressure test and it's still running warm.
    Here is a question. When I mashed the old car up the radiator popped and exposed the engine to 28* weather Could I have fubar'd the head gasket or thermostat?
    I think I'm gonna swap my etcs and solder a new pigtail on, some else replaced and crimped it on, could be reading high resistance

    If nothing works I'll replace the radiator

  2. #42

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    Well, after I said tightening the cap helped mine, we get a couple hot days and sure enough, it's back. So, I'm interested to see what fixes yours. I'm concerned the head gasket might be involved, but if it is, it's not to the point that I've got milkshake anywhere in the engine.

    Do I think the 28* had anything to do with your problem? No, not really. But what do I know, it only gets that cold here 2-3 times a year for a few hours, and everyone freaks out and forgets how to drive.

  3. #43
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    If you are running those black steelies with that chrome lip insert, you should get some chrome lug nuts.


    ALso....you had the fascia off and didn't install an intercooler....you make me very depressed.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  4. #44
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    @ S. Bret's
    My thoughts exactly! Though for the auto cross I can't run the rings. Swiped them off a junked 1986 f150
    And Haha well maybe next time

    @joel Time will tell but I may have fixed the problem, but I'm keeping a hawk eye on it


    So in other new more work was done today
    I suspect this May have been my culprit, and the gauge is calm for now


    And replaced, repaired, taped and spiral wraped


    I also ditched the rear seats, why? because RACE CAR! And they have baby puke on them


    My interior upgrades:
    Is that a NOS saturn arm rest complete with key? Why yes yes it is also a chopped shifter, leather hand brake cover and a delrin shifter bushing to top it all off



    And some seat repair/ voodoo to keep my ass planted, i tried to use both the seat bottom and back from a sl2 assenger leather seat but no dice. I ended up swaping the sc2 seat bottoms and keeping just the back

    Here's the problem:

  5. #45
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    Here's it all happy and back together

  6. #46
    Approved Vendor PVSaturn's Avatar
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    Where'd you get that arm-rest? Jelly. My oil pressure gauge is a bag of shit, never going with GlowShift ever again. Bought a brand new sensor just to find out the gauge itself is going bad after <9 months.
    1995 SC2 turbo/project car. Shaved/tucked bay and boost. The anti-drug. Broken 4 LIFE
    1999.5 Audi A4 1.8tqm Heavy, comfy, and stock. For now....

    "How long does a clutch last" How long does a pussy last? All depends on how you abuse it.

  7. #47
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    The next time you use the heat shrink butt connectors, stager the cut locations so that you don't get a pregnant spot in the wiring harness.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  8. #48
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    PV saturn I bought it off Craig's list from some dude moths ago he had a crate of them but I think he sold out

  9. #49
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    Gave it a quick and sloppy alignment set to 0* toe Handles much better now, less jittery and the inside tires doesn't scrub when cornering sharp
    I used ducktape, 2 tape measures and plastic wheel jacks lol

  10. #50
    siris's Avatar
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    Did you put the ass end on the ramps at the same time? The ass sitting lower then the front can change the settings some.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  11. #51
    Approved Vendor PVSaturn's Avatar
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    Is that yellow thing hanging from the oil cooler lines a zip tie? That is bothering me..
    Edit: Also I hope you don't keep your spark plug wires that close to the exhaust manifold or they'll melt
    Last edited by PVSaturn; 08-12-2014 at 07:14 PM.
    1995 SC2 turbo/project car. Shaved/tucked bay and boost. The anti-drug. Broken 4 LIFE
    1999.5 Audi A4 1.8tqm Heavy, comfy, and stock. For now....

    "How long does a clutch last" How long does a pussy last? All depends on how you abuse it.

  12. #52
    siris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PVSaturn View Post
    Is that yellow thing hanging from the oil cooler lines a zip tie? That is bothering me..
    Edit: Also I hope you don't keep your spark plug wires that close to the exhaust manifold or they'll melt
    If I'm not mistaken I believe he has an oil cooler hooked up. Because racecar.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  13. #53
    Approved Vendor PVSaturn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by siris View Post
    If I'm not mistaken I believe he has an oil cooler hooked up. Because racecar.
    But it looks like it has the end still hanging there. Clip that shit
    1995 SC2 turbo/project car. Shaved/tucked bay and boost. The anti-drug. Broken 4 LIFE
    1999.5 Audi A4 1.8tqm Heavy, comfy, and stock. For now....

    "How long does a clutch last" How long does a pussy last? All depends on how you abuse it.

  14. #54
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    Modding_out's Sc2 build: Sluggo mk3 (pic heavy)

    Siris I did not... I'll go measure it again tomorrow all level

    Lol, PV that's a piece of grass my barn is across the yard and no just for picture time

    Now that s. Bret mentioned the pregnant wire It's bothering me and I need to fix it, ugh...

    Believe it or not my oil cooler served a purpose on the black car, I did not have the oil pan clearancesd and my exhaust was heat thinning my oil. The cooler was a damn good bandaid but now I have the pan clearanced I have zero issues, I'd like to think it will help some while on the tarmack. It gets seriously hot out there
    Last edited by Modding_out; 08-12-2014 at 08:26 PM.

  15. #55
    siris's Avatar
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    Oil pan clearanced? For what?
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  16. #56
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    If you look back on the second page It shows it, my OBX header was bent funny I think. I'm the only one who has the problem but the runner was 1/8" away from the pan and was touching it with the header wrap on. Pan temp in that corner was well above 358* while the rest of the pan was 190/200* it was cooking my oil
    Now there is over 1/2" of clearance and no problem

  17. #57
    siris's Avatar
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    Gotcha
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  18. #58
    chrispel's Avatar
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    My obx header hit the pan also. Doing a couple of pull ups on it, fixed the problem.

  19. #59
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    LOL...I guess that would work.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  20. #60
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    Well my time it up! And I think I got everything together, I condensed 1.8years of combined effort from Mk2 into what really amounted to a month of effort.

    So I'm far from done with this project but here is a completed form of Sluggo Mk3

    I leave for my trip tomorrow morning and she's all packed and ready to go.

    I stenciled my numbers on and cleaned up the over spray (plastidip)


    And dressed it up a lil



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