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  1. #21
    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Turns out the fuse block I bought doesn't distribute power - each fuse has one in & one out. So I've got to decide if I want to create a split harness from the main power wire to each fuse individually, or buy a different block. *sigh*
    SaturnSeries.net Owner
    '99 SC2 Project Car build thread

  2. #22
    johnny95sl2's Avatar
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    You can jumper one end of each fuse together than put the power feed there. Then run all your loads individually off the other side of each fuse
    I got nothing for that




  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny95sl2 View Post
    You can jumper one end of each fuse together than put the power feed there. Then run all your loads individually off the other side of each fuse
    This. I ran a bare 12 gauge wire across the one side if the distribution block and soldered it on each good. Been solid and functional over 100k miles.
    - Nate

    2001 SL2m - Just about everything BUT the boost. High comp./N20 motor on the way.
    2000 SW2a - Newest member to the fold. .04 factory overbore.
    1998 Chevrolet 1500 Heavy 1/2 Ton. - Overweight, underpowered, bored .04

  4. #24
    siris's Avatar
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    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  5. #25

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    Also its true that the relay needs to be grounded. But the accessories you are providing power to do not need to be grounded to the relay. A short adequate local ground is fine. Keep it simple.
    - Nate

    2001 SL2m - Just about everything BUT the boost. High comp./N20 motor on the way.
    2000 SW2a - Newest member to the fold. .04 factory overbore.
    1998 Chevrolet 1500 Heavy 1/2 Ton. - Overweight, underpowered, bored .04

  6. #26
    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Soldered on jumpers sounds good. I have some liquid electrical tape I could probably just douse those ends with afterward. Thanks for the idea. Thinking I'm going to go home & do this very shortly, as it's a slow day at the shop, and my employee can cover things. It'll be nice to not drive around the suburban for commuting.
    SaturnSeries.net Owner
    '99 SC2 Project Car build thread

  7. #27
    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Everything is in & functional. I had to change my wiring a bit, once I found out that the power wire to the stereo is normally always on, and provides the power for the radio's memory. Had to run a separate power wire for it. Here's the final wiring diagram. I might've run the stereo line through the new fuse holder, but I already had the wire from the previous seat heater wiring that had the in-line fuse, so it was just easy to run it straight in. I've got 3 spots that are currently held together with wire nuts, but will be soldered eventually. The wire nuts were good for proof-of-concept wiring. Stereo & cig lighter use their stock grounds.

    SW2 Add-On Circuit.jpg
    SaturnSeries.net Owner
    '99 SC2 Project Car build thread

  8. #28
    trottida's Avatar
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    PurdueGuy, shouldn't there be an in-line fuse close to your power source (UHJB) in case that power wire ever wears and touches the body? I'd recommend it. Like yourself, I just installed my second seat heater as well but rather then adding an accessory fuse box I wire tapped the power wire between the relay and the seat heaters in-line fuse. It's not pretty but it is functional; I may go back next summer and follow through with what you did.

  9. #29
    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    It would probably be ideal now that you mention it, but I think my risk is pretty low, so I probably won't add one unless I do other changes.
    SaturnSeries.net Owner
    '99 SC2 Project Car build thread

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