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  1. #1
    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Create a dedicated circuit for multiple accessories

    Curious if anyone has suggestions/advice for creating a dedicated circuit for several interior accessories on an S-Series. I currently have a seat heater in the driver's seat on my '98 SW2, which has its own power wire from the battery, fused, and relayed to turn on with the radio ignition circuit. However, I want to add another seat heater, and move the radio and cigarette lighter to their own switched circuit as well. This is partially because of a recurring F5 issue in the car.

    I'm thinking one properly fused and proper gauge power wire should be able to supply all these, and then it's just a case of properly relaying the circuits. I need to check the gauge/fuse for the heated seat. Not sure if it would handle the additional accessories or not. I also need to think through whether each accessory needs its own relay, or if one relay for the circuit would do. Also need to figure out the main power wire for the radio.

    Any input is welcomed.
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    Approved Vendor PVSaturn's Avatar
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    I just used a terminal block with jumpers
    1995 SC2 turbo/project car. Shaved/tucked bay and boost. The anti-drug. Broken 4 LIFE
    1999.5 Audi A4 1.8tqm Heavy, comfy, and stock. For now....

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    Making a little relay / fuse panel from a spare fuse block plug is super easy and gives loads of inputs n outputs.
    http://our6thplanet.com/
    40 something saturns.. oh who fraking counts anymore

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    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Something like this, with the relay in line with the power wire?

    http://smile.amazon.com/HELLA-H84960...=1416956507226
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    Approved Vendor PVSaturn's Avatar
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    Yeah. Mine just doesn't have fuses. It runs small things like power to my gauges ect..
    1995 SC2 turbo/project car. Shaved/tucked bay and boost. The anti-drug. Broken 4 LIFE
    1999.5 Audi A4 1.8tqm Heavy, comfy, and stock. For now....

    "How long does a clutch last" How long does a pussy last? All depends on how you abuse it.

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    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  7. #7
    Get off my lawn.
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    When powering the seat heaters, did you run an additonal clean ground? What about a ground nearby?

    I still have seat heaters in a box here... maybe I'll finally get around to installing them.

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    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProDarwin View Post
    When powering the seat heaters, did you run an additonal clean ground? What about a ground nearby?

    I still have seat heaters in a box here... maybe I'll finally get around to installing them.
    I currently just have the driver's side, but have the kit to put in the passenger side. It's WONDERFUL. IIRC, I did a clean ground to the frame around/below the radio.
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    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    BTW, can anyone point me at a tool that would remove the female connector for the F5 pin from the harness, for easier cleaning? Hoping I can clean & respring it vs replace the fuse box or some other drastic action to fix the F5 issue, especially since I'll be removing load from that circuit.
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    HNIC SC2Sick's Avatar
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    Can you link or send me separately your heated seat setup? On days where I take my wagon to work (MPG is like 15+ over BMW probably and it's 30 miles each direction) I'd like to stay warmer...
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    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    IMO junkyard underhood fuse boxes on older vehicles (80s-90s trucks usually have them) work wonderfully for this purpose. Typically they have between 1-3 main power in lines and numerous outs, all fused and in a nice little box with labels. Add a relay (switch) that can handle the load and away you go. GEO/Suzuki/Chevy Trackers have a nice little one. Hold on ill get a pic of the one I put in my Samurai to power my aux driving lights, new dual horns and extra heater. Mines a constant on setup, because lights and whatnot, but you get the idea. Some of the spare outs from this run over to a hacked up Scar UHJB where each is relayed separately then the outs from there run in to a second stock samurai fuse block. The system is a bit, uh, robust, but it's chunks are modular and independent from the rest so if any one part goes bad, the rest still work.
    Last edited by ZombieSatty; 11-26-2014 at 06:48 PM.
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    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC2Sick View Post
    Can you link or send me separately your heated seat setup? On days where I take my wagon to work (MPG is like 15+ over BMW probably and it's 30 miles each direction) I'd like to stay warmer...
    Current setup is one of these kits (or one very like it): http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-628-040...ds=heated+seat

    Power wire from where the battery cable meets the underhood fuse box, through the grommet, through a relay that's mounted under the radio. The relay is wired into the ignition switched wire that runs to the stereo headunit, so the heated seat only has power when the ignition is on. I drilled a hole for the switch on the side of the center console, beside the shifter. It's right in front of the front of the seat, so it's easily reached, but far enough back that it doesn't get bumped. Feels like the perfect spot for it.
    SaturnSeries.net Owner
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    bsweitzer99's Avatar
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    I made my own little setup with a project box from RadioShack and mounted the relay in the box and a fused terminal block on top so I have 6 extra circuits that are all independently fused. It's not the prettiest setup but it does the job

    That's just a picture from when I was redoing a bunch of the wiring and it happens to kind of be in the picture on the bottom.
    99' SL2- stick swapped, static, slammed, DD, forever in progress.

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    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Got some 12 gauge wire and a 6 slot fuse block today. How's my wiring diagram look?

    SW2 Add-On Curcuit.jpg
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    siris's Avatar
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    I wouldn't hook grounds to the fuses. It may render them inoperable.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  17. #16
    johnny95sl2's Avatar
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    The power goes through the fuses to the load. The ground can just be connected to the frame. Looks like you have a 50a load on that panel/box. You will need the wire from the UHJB to be at least 6awg for that much load. Its also going to be a pretty hefty relay to run that much current.
    I got nothing for that




  18. #17
    siris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny95sl2 View Post
    The power goes through the fuses to the load. The ground can just be connected to the frame. Looks like you have a 50a load on that panel/box. You will need the wire from the UHJB to be at least 6awg for that much load. Its also going to be a pretty hefty relay to run that much current.
    I was fucking with him. There should be no grounds on the fuse block.........
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  19. #18
    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny95sl2 View Post
    The power goes through the fuses to the load. The ground can just be connected to the frame. Looks like you have a 50a load on that panel/box. You will need the wire from the UHJB to be at least 6awg for that much load. Its also going to be a pretty hefty relay to run that much current.
    I think I goofed at some point, and had it stuck in my brian that I was dealing with 40A. The relay is 40A. Right now I don't actually have the second seat heater, so in the immediate future it would be 40A, but I'd prefer to have it ready. Guess I'll order some bigger wire. *sigh*

    Quote Originally Posted by siris View Post
    I was fucking with him. There should be no grounds on the fuse block.........
    There's 2 posts off each fuse slot. I'm going to have to look at this thing again, but it's at home right now.
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  20. #19
    Get off my lawn.
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    You don't need 6 ga.

    Those fuses don't represent the load of the circuit. They are overload protection. The only way you'll see 50A is if you short across all of those circuits at once... in which case the fuses would each pop. Or if you somehow loaded each circuit to 90% of its max... which I don't see happening with the stereo, cig lighter, or heaters (usually 4-6a for those).

  21. #20
    Administrator PurdueGuy's Avatar
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    Thanks, I hadn't ordered the wire yet. Still need to look at the fuse block & figure it out, though.
    SaturnSeries.net Owner
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