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  1. #21
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    Pics or it didn't happen

  2. #22
    6S Staff redhotFTW!'s Avatar
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    Considering Andrew lives near Copper, I'm sure it did happen.

    Tuning on these car is not "in" again. Just a new round of n00bs that have big ideas with only a couple pennies rubbing together in their pocket.
    Black 2006 Cobalt SS/SC
    ZZP | GMPP |EBC |GM Stg2

  3. #23

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    Price was under 150$ for sure, 3 years ago I don't remember an exact amount. Mind you that does not include the hours of welding / cutting. Really though a mig is fairly inexpensive these days too.
    On the original build he kept the sway bar with a lot of extra work and fabrication, it really is not needed if you are running coil overs. Just adds to the cost and time.
    I'll snap some pics when I'm at the shop this weekend.
    http://our6thplanet.com/
    40 something saturns.. oh who fraking counts anymore

  4. #24
    Modding_out's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redhotFTW! View Post
    Considering Andrew lives near Copper, I'm sure it did happen.

    Tuning on these car is not "in" again. Just a new round of n00bs that have big ideas with only a couple pennies rubbing together in their pocket.
    No no I didn't say these cars that will never be "in" haha but other cars are

  5. #25
    bsweitzer99's Avatar
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    If you're local to coppertop that means you may not be far from me. I'd love to see this thing sometime. Or if you ever sell... You know your guy.
    99' SL2- stick swapped, static, slammed, DD, forever in progress.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by I8A4RE View Post
    If a custom lower "tubular" control arm was made with the sway bar mounting bracket being welded "below or underneath" the tubular arm, would this be a problem? Would it create a flex or rocking motion because it's not directly centered on the lower arm?
    There would be some added twisting in the lower arm under braking and acceleration.
    What is your performance goal for this modification? -Other than the bolt in ball joint.
    current build: 95 wagon, completed build: 95 sc1 to DOHC

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by hein View Post
    There would be some added twisting in the lower arm under braking and acceleration.
    What is your performance goal for this modification? -Other than the bolt in ball joint.
    Thanks for actually answering the question posed!

    Bolt-in ball joint would be VW. Why? I'm kinda gay for vw powertrains with their iron blocks (boost friendly), chip tuning, and vw still has a huge aftermarket. Never really fond of Saturn engines except for their high mpg capabilities.
    Goal: Would like to put a 2.0 aba engine in Saturn. Being able to use stock oem vw axles would be nice because front of a mk3 jetta has the same wingspan of saturn. Damn Saturn cradle prevents a more desired vr6 swap but aba still possible.
    Building a tubular lca that uses a jetta bolt in ball joint and being able to taylor the length of the arm 5-10mm would allow the use of unmodified jetta axles.
    NLS (nothing leaves stock) makes standalone ABA and VR6 wiring harnesses that makes wiring these into any make of car a piece of cake.
    Ultimately, a modest 200 hp boosted aba would be the goal.
    The father of a member here on Sixthsphere did a vw tdi swap in a sl2 but made custom axles with vw inners and saturn outer joints. Nice swap but I don't mess with no diesels.http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...ghlight=saturn
    Last edited by I8A4RE; 05-15-2015 at 12:07 AM.

  8. #28
    bsweitzer99's Avatar
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    I'm all for this project. I've always pondered a vr6 swap since they are my all time favorite engines, and i grew up working on the older vw's. The suspension is really nice to work with and allows for big brakes and 5x100
    99' SL2- stick swapped, static, slammed, DD, forever in progress.

  9. #29

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    I dont have paint on the work computer but honestly it wouldnt be that hard to make the lower control arm as you would like it. Im not interested in doing it to mine but when I replace my control arms (the new ones just came in today replacing next week) ill use the originals to draw up some tooling for you and can give you a rough draft to take to a fabricator. Any fab shop worth a darn would be able to make the tooling for you. Ill need the part number for the ball joints youre wanting to use so i can get the specs for it and work it into the drawing. that is if youre still interested. I will work in gussets for the twist, make the bushings compatable with a poly bushing. just a little math and such. but i can make the tubular one with the sway bar mount in the middle fairly easy, again compatable with the poly bushing.
    Last edited by dwillimon; 07-23-2015 at 02:19 PM.

  10. #30

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    OK I know it's 18 months later and probably too late.

    I know of a 96 SL2 running Cobalt knuckle, bearing, brake and rotor combination. They cut the ball joint end off the control arm and welded a plate to it so they could bolt the Cobalt ball joint on. And they ran a bunch of 7 hour endurance races with it. So far no issues. To me this strongly indicates the lower control arm is cast steel or the welds would not be holding.
    Endurance racing - Saturn style www.facebook.com/mostmintracing

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  12. #31
    Get off my lawn.
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    Pics?

    I'm interested in this. Not so much for the replaceable joint, but a Cobalt knuckle has a much better/replaceable bearing. I'm guessing this is the reason the enduro team went this route.

    Is this a Lemons/Chump/WRL team?

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  14. #32

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    No pics handy. Cut the lower control arm at the narrow between the ball joint and the hole for the sway bar, then machine a little on the bottom to get it flat and weld on a plate with the 3-hole pattern supporting the Ion ball joint. I'll have to do some measuring of the differences of the knuckles to get the placement right.

    ChumpCar team.
    Endurance racing - Saturn style www.facebook.com/mostmintracing

  15. #33
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    That sounds really interesting. I have thought about that path lots before, but the complete lack if straight, flat surfaces on the LCA in which to get reproducible measurements off of turned me off of the idea.

    Also, did they do a snout swap on the CV or are the splines the same? I didn't think they were. I believe they would have had to make a hybrid axel unless they used a bit of Lseries stuff as well. I thought we decided those hubs would work?
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  16. #34

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    The larger spline S-series halfshaft (94 and up I believe) is a direct fit for The Ion/Cobalt, as well as Cavaliers.

    Cobalt had a 4 and 5 bolt pattern depending on which model, but if you stick with the base model it's 4x100 and I fully expect stock Saturn wheels to fit.

    They did machine the LCA a little to ease plate install, so expecting to do the same.

    My plan is to get the plate welded first then drill the holes so I can refine alignment at that time. Of course height has to be right.

    I still would like insight into the metal in those control arms. I think it's cast steel and would prefer some facts rather than my empirical observations based on what I learned from YouTube
    Endurance racing - Saturn style www.facebook.com/mostmintracing

  17. #35
    siris's Avatar
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    For what it's worth pretty much everything automotive related will be cast steel now a days. From what I've been able to find cast steel is cheaper, and stronger, so there is very little need for cast iron anymore.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  18. #36
    Get off my lawn.
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    Came across this today:

    http://franavehicles.com/subarulongtravel.htm


    That wouldn't be very expensive to make actually.

  19. #37
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Not terribad, looks heavy I'd say.

    Did we ever nail down our ball joint cross reference?
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  20. #38
    Get off my lawn.
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    Definitely heavy... but a different use case compared to us. The manufacturing method isn't that hard and prototypes of those would be fairly cheap if we wanted to make some for turds.

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