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Thread: ZFG Wagon

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    siris's Avatar
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    ZFG Wagon

    Welp, Its time.
    This will be a photo journey of my shittastic wagon.

    Purchased off Craigslist for $350 with blown motor, and 4 different sized tires:
    2010-11-01_12-31-51.jpg

    Got a motor from @importsdontlikeme, he met me half way in the middle of the night.

    2011-03-24_23-12-13.jpg
    2011-03-24_23-12-24.jpg

    Reused pressure plate, which I believed to be the stock unit, with a new clutch disk.

    First mod after tires:

    2012-04-24_11-40-05.jpg
    2012-04-24_11-26-49.jpg

    Sometime in 2012 I cut a coil and a half off the stock springs, and welded them to the spring perches, it lowered the car about 2 inches.

    2013-06-04_13-01-17.jpg
    2013-06-04_13-02-39.jpg

    Around April 2013 I blowed up the engine I got from Brett. It lost a bearing on no.2 iirc. I blame the seafoam. There is a writeup on here that said to add a can of seafoam and run it 200 miles. I was at 197 when it started knocking.

    No pictures of the new engine, but it came out of a <100k mile 98 SC2a that had been rolled.

    Got a used turbo and AEM FIC/6 from a buddy for $250.

    First turbo "mock up" Note the NHRA approved turbo mounting zipties.

    2013-08-12_09-08-51.jpg

    FIC/6 Harness

    2013-08-18_20-06-22.jpg
    2013-08-20_10-13-36.jpg
    2013-08-21_10-32-24.jpg

    Turbo kit finished

    2013-12-05_12-57-16.jpg
    2013-12-05_12-57-04.jpg
    2013-10-22_15-26-50small.jpg

    Junkyard Errything. First kit was around $750-$800, The purpose of building it was to prove you could reliably boost a turd without spending a small fortune.

    Saab 9-3 Turbo, GT2052s
    Turbo Volvo injectors, 31lbs

    I made the turdboh manifold out of a stock cast manifold thrown on a drill press, with a 1.25" hole drilled in it. A 1.25" black iron plumbing coupling contoured to match the curves on the dp, and welded with a 60+ year old arc welder. The flange was a piece of scrap steel I had laying around, and I blocked off the bottom of the manifold with the same steel. The manifold cost me less than $2 to make.

    I drove the pile of shit every day of the build. The day I mounted the turbo I bolted it on before work, wrapped the turbine outlet with a few licence plates lashed together with some #12 bare copper ground wire, drove to work, and dropped it off at the exhaust shop on my lunch break.

    I drove the car on stock timing for a few weeks before I figured out how to add timing retard.

    The FIC/6 is supposed to interrupt the crank signal to the pcm, adding timing retard by delaying the signal. Our crank sensor creates too high a voltage for the FIC. Sooo, I had to get creative. I started researching how the Saturn obd1 icm worked. Once I figured out it processed the crank signal and sent it to the PCM, the PCM decided spark advance and send the signal back via the EST line. I intercepted the EST line and use that to control timing. The downside of all of this is the PCM uses knock windowing, so when I would retard the timing, the PCM saw it as knock. So the knock sensor had to come off the block, it is grounded with a short length of wire and zip tied loosely to the firewall.

    The car was beaten daily on 12 psi for about 6 months after I figured the timing out.

    Broke the Zero fucks given manifold a couple times.

    2013-12-17_13-16-18.jpg

    Drove the car 550 miles roundtrip twice to Maryland because my father-in-law had stage 4 Non-Hodgkin's lymphoma and was going through chemo.

    This was one of the trips back

    2014-02-02_16-18-31 (Large).jpg

    I started researching coilovers and did this

    2014-03-11_13-06-26.jpg
    2014-03-11_13-06-40.jpg
    2014-03-11_15-04-41.jpg
    2014-03-15_15-26-12 (Large).jpg

    Made solid dogbones, actually parts to a bowling alley pinsetter. Free fitty

    2014-03-25_12-30-29 (Large).jpg
    2014-03-25_12-31-20.jpg

    Drove the pile of shit to Maryland again, this time for the bbq at Brett's

    2014-03-29_14-12-35.jpg

    Right around a year of being boosted on that tiny turbo at 12 psi, I cranked the shitty boost controller as far as it would go. I would get 15-17 psi and then it would fall back to 10 psi above 5k. I have no idea why, seeing as how it had the most efficient manifold/downpipe imaginable.

    The first time the car broke and needed a tow I wasn't actually driving, I borrowed my buddie's truck and let him take the car. The shift cable broke.

    2014-10-27_16-14-31.jpg

    I fabbed up a rod linkage assembly to replace the factory shift cables, Used an old shelf, a set of rod ends off a bowling alley pinsetter ball return, and an oem Saturn shifter.
    I fucked up when I made it and the gears ended up backwards. I was going to leave it that way, but I couldn't get it inspected with them backwards so I had to fix it. I upgraded to heim joints (the rod ends I used had too much slop in them), made the throw shorter, and corrected the pivot to get the gears to the proper spots.

    20150208_142426 (Large).jpg20150208_142435 (Large).jpg20150208_142504 (Large).jpg1423424708798.jpg1423424766243.jpg

    This past winter I went big, 30" tires and a 6" lift.
    Edit: The Tires are not actually 30", not sure why I thought they were. They are 215/75r15's, which is about 27.7" tall. The 6" lift is compared to where it was lowered, not stock ride height, It's probably 2-3" taller than stock, plus the extra tire height.

    2014-10-22_10-19-55 (Large).jpg2014-11-23_21-43-54.jpg2014-11-23_21-45-22.jpg2014-11-24_09-33-41.jpg2014-11-24_10-34-50 (Large).jpg2014-11-30_13-07-25 (Large).jpg2015-02-17_17-30-33 (Large).jpg2015-02-17_17-31-57 (Large).jpg2015-02-17_17-34-00 (Large).jpg2015-02-17_17-34-36 (Large).jpg

    After driving the car for a year and 6 months on that tiny turbo, shitty downpipe, and even shittier manifold. I decided it was time to get seriousphere on the pile of shit.

    In the meantime I had acquired:
    A lower tieplate from @lilcraigford I traded a TCC for
    Forged rods from @bsweitzer99 for $250

    2015-04-20_00-56-09 (Large).jpg

    Log manifold from @PVSaturn for $50+shipping
    HY35w off of a guy on craigslist for $250
    Act 6 puck from a guy on Facebook for $200 iirc.
    Got a set of RC 750's and a stock SRT4 fuel pump for FREE
    The Fuel pump is rated at 170lph at 50PSI

    Out with the old

    2015-04-01_14-52-25 (Large).jpg2015-04-01_14-54-03 (Large).jpg2015-04-01_14-55-25 (Large).jpg2015-04-04_13-02-40 (Large).jpg

    In with the new

    2015-04-04_12-49-30 (Large).jpg2015-04-06_12-32-05.jpg2015-04-06_12-32-06.jpg2015-04-08_15-01-06 (Large).jpg2015-04-20_00-39-20 (Large).jpg2015-04-20_00-41-03 (Large).jpg

    The wastegate actuator is actually off the Saab turbo, the Factory Dodge actuator has a 20lb spring in it. The actuator was too short for the much bigger turbo, so I fabricated a new end piece, out of a dipstick off of a 1968 Volkswagen SuperBeetle, and a nut from Lowe's.

    Down pipe is actually made from the exhaust off of a LT1 Fbody. I pie cut it with a benchvice, and sawsall, then tacked it up with aformentioned 60+ year old arc welder. The flange was custom made for me by an old man that lives near me, he is a retired machinist and still fools with stuff on the side to get away from his old lady. Final welding was done by a friend that owns a local performance shop, mmmmmnnn tig welds. The 2.75" downpipe comes down to a 2.5" flex, that is welded to the stock cat.

    The radiator is out of a junkyard Neon. With old used LT1 radiator hoses. I made a lower radiator support out of an old bedframe, that bolts to the holes the stock radiator fit in.

    After being boosted for a year and 8 months I figured it was time to check its vitals.

    2015-05-17_10-41-22 (Large).jpg2015-05-17_10-42-16 (Large).jpg2015-05-17_10-43-17 (Large).jpg2015-05-17_10-44-13 (Large).jpg

    Purty good for a car I've beaten the wheels off of.

    The clutch hated life at 10 psi on the new turbo setup, so cue sloppy clutch change

    2015-08-09_17-00-38 (Large).jpg2015-08-09_17-00-50 (Large).jpg

    I've had cooling issues since the new turbo/radiator so I got a foundation vent from Lowe's ($2.94) and made a front splitter (<$20).

    IMG_20150721_125701(Large).jpgIMG_20150721_132625(large).jpg

    2015-08-12_13-01-33 (Large).jpg2015-08-12_13-13-08 (Large).jpg2015-08-17_12-20-32.jpg2015-08-13_12-54-28 (Large).jpg2015-08-13_12-55-15 (Large).jpg

    They have dropped coolant temps by 20 degree's on the road moving, and 10 degrees in traffic.

    Update, 10/30/2015
    The car got a few goodies over the past month or so, one of them being a 60mm wastegate on the downpipe, effectively giving it an open downpipe in boost. Its difficult to take pictures of it. That cost $113 Shipped off of ebay. Still cheaper than getting a full 2.5" or 3" exhaust done. Splitter had to come off, since it isn't really "rated" to have fire shot at it from the open dump......

    DSCN0319 (Custom).jpgDSCN0318 (Custom).jpgDSCN0320 (Custom).jpg

    I broke the original trans that came in the car. Snapped second gear synchro. Its been a bitch to slam it into second since i got the car, so I knew it would need to be changed eventually. Just so happened two days after I broke it the local junkyard did a %50 off sale. So I scored a $40 MP3 out of a 76000 mile 99 SC2.

    DSCN0315 (Custom).jpgDSCN0316 (Custom).jpgDSCN0314 (Custom).jpgDSCN0313 (Custom).jpg

    Ported the wastegate hole out on the turbo, Now it will actually hold boost, and not try to make 20+psi. Glad i had the forethought to add a steep fuel dump/spark retard above 17psi, no pics of that. I also stopped being a fucking procrastinator and wired/programmed my boost by gear for the shitbox.

    Here is a video of it:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOfUBEy6J2I


    It is set a little off, fourth gear doesn't come on high boost as soon as I get in the gear, well what I consider high boost for a bone stock motor, I get into fourth at 80, it was set to 90, I forgot I swapped an mp3 in when I programmed it.

    I want to make 300hp on a dyno with the bone stock motor. That is my goal.


    At the time of writing this the tie plate, forged rods, fuel pump, and 750cc injectors are not installed yet, but future plans include, sloppy engine rebuild. Pull it apart, use stock sohc pistons on the forged rods, reuse the rings on the pistons in the car with a wider gap, and plastiguage the forged rods to see if I can just reuse the bearings in the car now. Slap the tie plate on and make over 350 on a stock block.

    Still need to acquire ARP head studs, and I'd really like a MLS headgasket.
    Last edited by siris; 10-30-2015 at 08:13 AM.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

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  3. #2
    rubensw2's Avatar
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    Following this nao.
    Buy it, Build it, Drive it, Break it, Fix it

  4. #3
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    LOL...that is the worst bend coming off the turbine that I have ever seen.

    You could probably pick up 20whp with some mandrels.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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  6. #4
    siris's Avatar
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    It has been changed, that was the old setup.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  7. #5
    siris's Avatar
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    Bump for update
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  8. #6
    HNIC SC2Sick's Avatar
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    Awesome
    Sixthsphere.com Owner
    2016 Honda Fit
    2003 BMW e46
    2001 Saturn SC2 - Forged with everything but boost - FOR SALE PM FOR MORE INFO
    1998 Ford Ranger

  9. #7
    sl2racer's Avatar
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    wow that was some honda skills in the beginning
    Last edited by sl2racer; 08-18-2015 at 02:22 PM.
    2007 chevy classic 2500hd 4x4 duramax
    1996 383 lt1 auto trans am
    1995 sl1. single cam of fury
    1995 jeep wrangler lifted 4x4 4.0
    1995 ford explorer 4x4

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    siris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sl2racer View Post
    wow that was some honda skills in the beginning
    Shit son, honda's are embarrassed by my skills.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

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  13. #9
    siris's Avatar
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    I'm running a really conservative timing table, and the stock exhaust does not help with power either. I have a total of 18* pulled at 15psi, so it should be around 17* of total timing at 15psi. Super conservative. I need to hook up an egt guage to make sure all that timing retard isn't melting my turbine. The Afr hovers around 11.5-12 under boost.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  14. #10
    dynonacht's Avatar
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    The shifter on this is my favorite.
    2001 red Sc2m R.I.P.
    1998 gold Sc2m (Goldylocks) Ms2 turbo construction
    1995 white Sc1.5m N/A (Becky) R.I.P.
    1999 navy blue Outback 2.5m (un named) DD

  15. #11
    siris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dynonacht View Post
    The shifter on this is my favorite.
    Its fixed, it is the correct shift pattern now, fixed it a few months back.

    I actually forgot to add the shifter fix in the op. I'll take some pics and add it.
    Last edited by siris; 08-18-2015 at 12:25 PM.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  16. #12
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    300 on a stock bottom end is not likelly. The rods usually start to bend around 275ish.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  17. #13
    HNIC SC2Sick's Avatar
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    He has forged rods pic further up
    Sixthsphere.com Owner
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    2003 BMW e46
    2001 Saturn SC2 - Forged with everything but boost - FOR SALE PM FOR MORE INFO
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  18. #14
    sl2racer's Avatar
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    im not sure if i would keep the stock pistons too when you do the rebuild if you are shooting for 350. spend the extra coin and get some better pistons to go with the forged rods.
    2007 chevy classic 2500hd 4x4 duramax
    1996 383 lt1 auto trans am
    1995 sl1. single cam of fury
    1995 jeep wrangler lifted 4x4 4.0
    1995 ford explorer 4x4

  19. #15
    dynonacht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SC2Sick View Post
    He has forged rods pic further up
    he wants to dyno at 300 before he puts the forged rods in.
    2001 red Sc2m R.I.P.
    1998 gold Sc2m (Goldylocks) Ms2 turbo construction
    1995 white Sc1.5m N/A (Becky) R.I.P.
    1999 navy blue Outback 2.5m (un named) DD

  20. #16
    sl2racer's Avatar
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    yep then he says he will put forged rods with stock sohc pistons and shoot for 350 on stock block. do able possibly but i wouldn't.
    2007 chevy classic 2500hd 4x4 duramax
    1996 383 lt1 auto trans am
    1995 sl1. single cam of fury
    1995 jeep wrangler lifted 4x4 4.0
    1995 ford explorer 4x4

  21. #17
    Get off my lawn.
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    This is my favorite build I've seen on this site. I just want to see the car survive a trackday at >200whp.

  22. #18
    siris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S.Bretz View Post
    300 on a stock bottom end is not likelly. The rods usually start to bend around 275ish.
    When Tristan finally blew his up what went? I've tried going on the old tsn board to find it but it got lost when the everything got archived.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  23. #19
    HNIC SC2Sick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by siris View Post
    When Tristan finally blew his up what went? I've tried going on the old tsn board to find it but it got lost when the everything got archived.
    We discussed this like literally a week ago according to facebook messenger haha

    http://www.streetfire.net/video/turb...psi_148503.htm
    Sixthsphere.com Owner
    2016 Honda Fit
    2003 BMW e46
    2001 Saturn SC2 - Forged with everything but boost - FOR SALE PM FOR MORE INFO
    1998 Ford Ranger

  24. #20
    siris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sl2racer View Post
    im not sure if i would keep the stock pistons too when you do the rebuild if you are shooting for 350. spend the extra coin and get some better pistons to go with the forged rods.
    I may, but for now the plan is to use stock pistons. If I can get a forged set for cheap I will probably scoop them up. I think gapping the rings wide will keep the ringlands from popping at the power level I want to see. Only one way to find out though. ;-D
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

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