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  1. #1

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    Noisy tires sound after AutoX

    So I've done a year and half worth of events. We did an event last month that we managed at least 10 extra fun runs. managed to push the car pretty hard. car has 170k miles on it now...
    towards the end of the runs I am getting a noise particularly noticable when turning- sounds like a fucked up tire (wub wub wub)

    quick rundown of car:
    Falken azeni's 200tw on stock alloys
    progress springs
    kyb gr2s
    poly bushings all around and new ball joints
    fresh innie and outie tie rods
    sohc front sway bar and 16mm rear bar

    anyhow it was only initially in right turns it made the sound and now its in left turns some too...and in a straight line a teeny bit.
    all the wheel bearings run perfectly cool - I recently did a 1750 mile trip and no problems with hub temps.

    I visually inspected the suspicious (based on this forums' experience) LCA to sway bar bushings butthey seem tight. I tried rocking the wheel fore and aft but no motion. no play in the wheel when jacked up - only movement is the strut up and down like its supposed to.

    Drive shafts? dont they do clicky noises? intermediate shaft bearing maybe? although I doubt that since it should be isolated from thrust loads??

    steering feels good and tight but the car wanders because I have less toe in than normal (for better autoXing). its manageable on the hwy.

    This sound occurs with the falken azenis which are used ONLY for Autox and my cooper cs4 dailies (yes 640 tw for DD lol).
    thoughts?

  2. #2
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Check rear bearings?
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  3. #3

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    I checked all four. they are all running the same temps.

    I read a little bit about the adjustment on the steering rack. Might be worth a shot.
    The only other thing I can think of are the struts being toast and the it makes the car floaty... the car never oscillates, though.

  4. #4
    siris's Avatar
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    Got to be tires/wheel bearings/or brakes.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  5. #5

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    Well.. I could change all the brakes, I have new rotors and hawk pads for all 4 corners...


    It'll have to wait till the weekend :/

  6. #6
    siris's Avatar
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    I know your convinced its not the bearings, but its pretty common to toast them during an especially hard driving session. Its actually one of the biggest failure points on these cars when it comes to a Motorsport activity. Ask @ProDarwin.
    72 Charger: pissed me off, on jackstands.
    95 SW1m: Dohc swap. DD. I can haz boost?

  7. #7

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    Can they fail without running hot?

  8. #8
    Approved Vendor ZombieSatty's Avatar
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    Yea, I guess, I never based it off of temps. I just check for play and the rest of the system.

    I do get a wub wub when taking a hard right. I think it's a binding rear sway bar on my car. You could try disconnecting the endlinks and going for a drive. Easily rule it out at least.
    It's not my fault, blame the radiation.

  9. #9
    rubensw2's Avatar
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    Could be ball joints. or Tie rods
    Buy it, Build it, Drive it, Break it, Fix it

  10. #10

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    stripped all knuckles down to the hub and the rears are loose. replaced with SKF units but still has noise...its got to be the front. IDK how your supposed to tell if the front bearings are bad other than temperature because the trans/drive axles make it much more resistance. Wiggle test doesnt do shit.

  11. #11

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    well went to the JY and got a extra set of knuckles and replaced the bearings in those, and hotswapped into my car.

    Wow, such quiet.

    Seriously, took my old knuckles off and still felt tight.

    Hopefully that's a happy ending (meaning we pressed the parts in straight on)

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  13. #12

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    To follow up on this, this set was making noise about 3-4 months ago. I repacked a full set front and back with valvoline synthetic grease.

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  15. #13

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    I would say 75% of the sealed wheel bearings that I have replaced exhibited no play when subjected to the wiggle test, but they were all noisy. I have found that they generally start making noise well before they get loose enough to detect free play. Usually if I can feel play in them they are in pretty bad shape and they start howling at 25-30 mph. Determining which side usually requires driving down a relatively straight road and giving the car quick left/right inputs in the steering wheel to load and unload the right and left sides of the car. Front and back is a little more difficult to tell and is usually easier to tell by riding in the front and then the back and comparing which is louder. I don't think I have ever been able to diagnose a wheel bearing by how hot it is running, but I don't have a thermal gun handy.
    '89 Cougar XR-7 5 Speed
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  16. #14

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    on my old car , 76 ltd you could tell if the bearings needed adjustment by hub temp after hwy driving. i adjusted one once and it cooled off.

    i agree doesnt work on new style sealed units

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