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  1. #1

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    Saturn Bass Wagon build

    Longtime bass enthusiast here, been going to thrift stores and making frankenstein systems in the garage with PSU's since 12-13 years old.

    Got my first car 2 years ago, 2002 saturn lw200 aha decided to finally show my build process on here and see what the feed back is like. Base model package so no premium audio aka subwoofer or amplifier, just .75" tweeters and 6.5" mids in the front, 5.5" in the rear. Only one midrange and one tweeter worked, plus the decks was garbage too


    Was in school when I got the saturn so had minimal money to start up the project. My dad's buddy to have a business supplying baseline audio equip and had a stock pile in his basement, gave him 3 cases of beer for the following in my first attempt at vamping up the system (cheaply):

    Front Series:
    -Pyle 350 watt (lol) 6.5" triaxial speakers for the front
    -PCS 300 watt x 2
    -PPS crossover x 2

    Amps:
    -2000 watt legacy blue diamond 4 channel amp for mids/tweets (I know, dont make fun)
    -Blaupunkt v2100 amp for subs

    -4 gauge wiring for two power feeds, and two grounds. 60ft 12 gauge wiring for speakers

    Rear Series:
    -Pioneer TS-G1644R 2 way Coaxial 250watt 4ohm for the rears (worked well but had to do a ghetto fitment till I upgraded to JBL components and got the right size) got these from 2001 a/v
    -PCS 300 watt (yet again, lol) tweeters to replace on all doors
    -PPS crossover for each door

    Subwoofers:
    -two 12" Blaupunkt Velocity pro component DVC subs, going off of a 200 watt 2/1 Blaupunkt V2100 amp. (old school equipment yes I know, never going to get rid of these though aha) Had these already

    took out all the crappy ACDelco speakers&tweeters, started to feed the 12 gauge wire around into all the doors (front was alot easier then the rears oddly enough) but after that was all done the speakers went in.

    None of these speakers needed spacing which was amazing probs because the small ass magnets, the tweeters were a bit tricky since the mounting bracket didn't work inside the door panel area I wanted to mount it (want to keep it looking clean without fabricating new spaces for the tweets to sit in. Eventually got them all glued in place, lastly was the crossovers. Did my research and hopefully I didn't f**k this up but I put them on the inside of the door panel, made sure I left room for the wires so when removing the panel to work on or remove them its not a pain in the ass.

    Finally! Wiring was done and I could put the panels back on, fed it all to the back under the cargo area/ above spare tire to the 4 channel amp. Made sure I did power and remote down one side of the car, then rca's down the passenger side.

    Next step was a deck, looked around online for a bit and wasn't really sure. Then a friend happened to be moving and got turned down by a rental moving company cause of his business (exotics) so I helped him out and he gave me a deal on a Alpine iva-w203 double din. Real nice deck for its time. Had it running the ipod cable that allows great maneuvering and tapped into the parking and brake wires to allow access to all menu's.

    Sadly have been really lazy and still haven't gone around to properly soldering and shrink wrapping to make a new wiring harness. Have it ghetto rigged going to the back of the deck, may need some assistance doing such since I can't find a wiring diagram for my 14pin radio harness (2002 lw200) anywhere???

    Last step was hooking up the blaupunkt amp to the other 4 gauge power and ground, then running another remote off from the 4 channel amp.

    System tbh for the cheapness didn't sound to bad, but obviously right away I wanted more... the subs are oldschool I've just had them forever and haven't been able to let them go.

    This is just the first stage, did a huge upgrade including new subs, rare 5 channel amp, ai-net upgrade and more. Have pictures to go along with that. Will post second stage on next post, stay tuned

  2. #2
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    I don't see a 14pin conector....I think this is the connector you are looking for.



    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  3. #3

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    Idk why my friggin blackberry won't let me add pictures in this reply? Going to have to email it to myself and send over the computer in the bit, but that's sadly not the wiring diagram I need. I didn't have the advanced audio system in mine, no subwoofer in drivers corner of cargo area or amplifier

  4. #4

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  5. #5

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    Some pictures of the first stage of upgrades done audio wise to the wagon


    Wiring up the subs, these ones are from an oldschool build, oddly enough they're 6 ohm 12". Nice delta box when it was all wired up with the equalizers it was quality for 2001 car audio.




    Group shot of the 4 channel amp, front pyle 6.5" speakers , tweeters, xovers and some extras.


    Brake bypass wiring setup, push switch for foot brake and toggle for Hand brake. Ghetto location mounted them properly later.


  6. #6

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    Breakdown of the First Stage of Upgrades

    Wiring:
    -2 runs of 4gauge run for subwoofer amplifier and speaker amplifier power, grounds at the rear into the chassis. One run of cca and the other of ofc
    -12 gauge speaker wire ran to every door, probably overdid it a bit gauge wise but leaves room for upgrades later on.
    -3 runs of rca's for subs, front and rears.

    Speakers:
    Fronts= 6.5" Pyle triaxial 180 rms per speaker
    Rear's= 6.5" pioneers (didn't fit well needed 5.25" but waited to upgrade to something quality) 175 rms approx
    Tweeters:
    were overrated 300watt little cheap guys, doubt they did even close to that think we measured 50-60rms.
    Subwoofers:
    Blaupunkt Velocity 12" pro series 6 ohm DVC rated at 300 watts per sub

    Amplifiers:
    Speakers= Legacy Diamond "2000" watt amplifier, measured it at a 710 watts approx 500 rms. So a bit underpowered speakers but sounded decent for the tight budget this was built on.
    Subwoofer= Blaupunkt v2100 paired to the 6ohm subs wired down to 2ohm, at 2 ohms bridged it was pushing out roughly 450 watts. The big custom box helped produce a decent sound result

  7. #7
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    I don't see any other radio schematics. There are separate schematics for just the amp...the stuff I posted is for the radio only.


    With some probing you should be able to figure it out.

    When dealing with GM wiring I use an old saying I was taught many years ago...Its a bit racist but it works. Please don't make this into me being racist...

    The alien never drives and the dark guy sits in back. The "alien" would be a wire with a black trace on it....it will never be power, always ground. If you have two colors the same but one is lighter than the other, the "dark guy" will be in the "back" and never driving....so the lighter color will be power and the darker color is the negative.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  8. #8

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    So after dealing with the cheap setup for a few months I had posted a long summary of above, I started having more funds to put towards upgrading so I did. Removed all the equipment and started back up..

    Equipment:

    -JBL 508C Component set 5.25"
    -JBL 608C Component set 6.5"
    -Alpine SBS-05DC 2 Way center speaker
    -Alpine IVA-w205 head unit with Blackbird PMD-b200 gps.
    -two 12" MTX TCE512X2D subs in a mtx thunder ported box
    -Kicker KX600.1 mono amplifier
    -Alpine MRA-F350 5 channel amplifier


    First removed all the current equipment and started with speakers

    Speakers:
    Fronts- JBL GTO 608C Component Speakers (140 watts per set / 70 watts each side, 2-ohms impedance, Outboard Crossover with tweeter level control, Mylar/titanium composite dome tweeters)

    Rears- JBL GTO 508C Component speakers ( 110 watts per set / 55 watts each side, Mylar/titanium composite dome tweeters 2 ohms impedance,Outboard Crossover with tweeter level control)








    Install was nothing bad, little bit of glue on and a side support for the tweeter but pretty straight forward. Was curious to see what you guys though about my xover placement, should I have wrapped it in a material?

    Headunit:

    Alpine iva-w205, which luckily enough is able to be hooked up to my 5 channel alpine amp via ai-net cable for quality sound and amazing equalizer settings enabled. From the back of my deck I have the ai-net connected to a sirius interface (kca-sc100 + scc1, that interface output goes to the deck and input connects to the long ai-net to reach the 5 channel amp in the rear) I located the kca-sc100 beside my glovebox for easy access

    Tapped into the parking and hand brake bypass with switches to allow full menu + dvd watching. Still sadly have this deck ghetto rigged, need to do a proper wiring harness asap.



    IMG_20151215_180907.jpg

    IMG_20151215_184200.jpg

    IMG_20151117_133243.jpg

    IMG_20151215_180907.jpg

    ^ had to toss the kca-sc100 to the side of glovebox for close proximity to ground/12v wiring, worked out nicely, the scc1 has a long data cable that sits right underneath the center console and has plenty of room to connect to antenna and etc. ! Siriusxm ftw #howardstern

    IMG_20151117_133304_hdr.jpg

    This current setup then progressed from the MRA-F350 to an Alpine MRA-D550 (more rms per channel and cleaner sound + more processor/ eq options on the deck!)

    Cleaned up and rerouted alot of wiring, going to make it even cleaner for the Kicker amp feed once its warmer out, drilling two small holes in my fluid compartment between back seats and cargo area so you will see extremely minimal cables!

    http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/St...tml?sort=3&o=1

    Subwoofer Upgrades:

    Blaupunkt ---> 2 MTX TCE512X2D subs in a mtx thunder ported box

    2 MTX TCE512X2D subs----> JL W3V3 12" (temporary, got for a great price off a bass enthusiast who had kids at my work and got rid of the setup)

    The 12" JL W3V3 then lead to my current -----> JL 15" W3-D2, which I'm very hyped with. Sounds great off just the kicker, seen some guys using them as daily drivers as well SPL feeding off close to 1000 watt amps so they can handle a fair bit!

    http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/St...tml?sort=3&o=4



    http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/St...tml?sort=3&o=7



    Also, side not but my buddy got a nice ass Minotaur SAZ-1500d amp and we hooked it up to my MTX's to test er out, she freaking slapped had to run it low gain! Amazing amp highly recommend them, by chance anyone got a draconia to match it?

    IMG_20151215_171838.jpg

    Ghetto temp wiring harness too, lol someone please find me a wiring diagram so I can do some solder and shrink wrap!!

    http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/St...tml?sort=3&o=9



    More to come... 18" skar, ft a 1500 sundown amp. Alt upgrade and big three too, plus the change from 4 gauge to 2/0 copper

  9. #9

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    so yet again, between diymobile audio and this page, my freaking pictures I link from photobucket won't work. WTF

    atleast some of the ones i uploaded worked out!!

    http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/St...?sort=3&page=1

    this has got everything in case you wanna see. and Pleaseeee someone find me a wiring harness diagram for my satty

    cheers lads

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