steering knuckles and wheel bearings: the thread

[leighv]

anyone experience bad steering knuckles? i installed two bearings and the wheel is slightly loose after torquing down the axle nut. Trying not to burn the car down right now. *edit* by two bearings i mean i changed the bearings in one knuckle twice after encountering the new bearing being loose.

[axxer4200]

anyone experience bad steering knuckles? i installed two bearings and the wheel is slightly loose after torquing down the axle nut. Trying not to burn the car down right now. *edit* by two bearings i mean i changed the bearings in one knuckle twice after encountering the new bearing being loose.

No it shouldn't be loose. I'm not sure why gourds is wiggling when I didn't have my axle nut tight enough I did have a little bit of play

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[leighv]

i used an 18" breaker bare and i lifted using my legs and the ground for maximum torque after it didnt tighten up any.

what about a reman axle from napa? anyone have seating problems using that?

[ZombieSatty]

It's common enough for the knuckle itself to wear after being run with a bad bearing. I may have missed it but did you measure the knuckle itself?

[leighv]

tldr no. i sandblasted them and de burred them (just above the snap ring groove only). thoroughly cleaned and degreased the bore.

[leighv]

Well i don't know what to do i probably have two bads sets of knuckles. makes me not want to own this car anymore. the only solution that doesnt involve falling for the old GM bullshit is to create a new steering knuckle locost-style that can have a bolt on hub or something.

[leighv]

I think this has been looked at before but I'm not sure- anyone thought of adapting 4 lug Ion knuckles or at least the hubs? maybe take a stock S-series hub and machine them to be able to receive Ion hubs? i know the spline count (33) is the same for both cars. I couldnt find the spline diameter or if the length is the same. this would be great to just be able to swap hubs instead of the whole knuckle.

[ZombieSatty]

We have knocked it around. I think we kept running into the ball joint taper being the main hurdle.

[leighv]

We have knocked it around. I think we kept running into the ball joint taper being the main hurdle.

Weld and machine it to correct taper maybe?

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[leighv]

actually i see what you mean looking closer at one. makes me think we'd be better off chucking an s-series knuckle in a lathe and making the ion hub assembly a bolt on to an s-series knuckle.

[axxer4200]

Okay probably the stupidest question of the day you did put the washer back on correct? On a side note I had a bearing that was loose also like I had said come to find out it ended up being my axle nut being loose you are not supposed to reuse them I didn't have a choice at time so I cranked down on it with a breaker bar also. When I went to change it finally I could not get it Loose for the life of me when I did it ended up sharing the end of the axle off so it could be possible that the axle has stretched minutely and that's why you cannot get a good torque on it. Talk to text sorry for the run-ons

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[leighv]

Okay probably the stupidest question of the day you did put the washer back on correct? On a side note I had a bearing that was loose also like I had said come to find out it ended up being my axle nut being loose you are not supposed to reuse them I didn't have a choice at time so I cranked down on it with a breaker bar also. When I went to change it finally I could not get it Loose for the life of me when I did it ended up sharing the end of the axle off so it could be possible that the axle has stretched minutely and that's why you cannot get a good torque on it. Talk to text sorry for the run-ons

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New axle nut yea. I could perhaps try another axle. Probably should get spares anyway since reman is shit just like all other aftermarket

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[axxer4200]

New axle nut yea. I could perhaps try another axle. Probably should get spares anyway since reman is shit just like all other aftermarket

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What about the washer?

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[leighv]

What about the washer?

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Yea

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[ProDarwin]

I've pondered machining to accept an Ion hub before. I imagine its a lot more complex than just getting that hole pattern right though. You need to get the shoulder of the CV -> face of hub correct with the different stackup of the S series knuckle.

There was a thread on here where some lemons teams were using ion/cobalt knuckles. They cut the LCA after the swaybar, welded on a new end and installed a ball joint that fits the cobalt/ion knuckle.

That has the added benefit of being able to use a taller ball joint to correct for some lowering.

Every time I start thinking about going down this path, the best option seems to be ecotec swap w/subframe & front suspension

[leighv]

honestly it would be easier to just make a new LCA. welding on a cast steel arm can be precarious.
it'd be that or design a new spindle that would also drop the ball joint location in relation to the wheel.

gah... i just need a stock s-series...trying to look at a 2nd/3rd gen wagon on craigslist soon. >.<

[leighv]

Went ahead and ordered some set39s and I'll grab some hubs from the jy next week

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[leighv]

picked yet another set of knuckles and am currently runnig the SET39 bearings. hopefully they last longer.

[ZombieSatty]

Are thoes the fabled roller bearings people talk about?

[ProDarwin]

yes