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  1. #1
    6S Resident Hasselhoff. alexofnazareth's Avatar
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    Drilling out "TAM" bolts and ordering new long studs

    Well the offroad turd has finally hit its 2nd hiccup.
    The head bolts that I used in place of the studs for the TAM due to me spacing down the powertrain have failed finally.
    The two outer bolts are broken off in the TCC.
    I know drilling studs out can be a pain. Anyone know about drilling out head bolt remnants? lol

    Also I'll need to find a longer replacement stud to avoid this from happening again.
    Swapping out the UHMPE spacer for something that wont squish would also help since I figured the head bolts were backing out anyway.
    Anyone have suggestions on where to source studs? Otherwise I was just gonna order a set of ARPs and use those. Lemme know.


    Bolt shear.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    I see a failboat, steaming full speed on an ocean of failsauce into a barrier reef of lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. Livewire View Post
    if you hate seeing money going down the drane

    than do not turbo your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sixthsphere: Home of newbs, cunts, and Shane Jackson.

  2. #2
    Resident Electromotive Expert importsdontlikeme's Avatar
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    I've never had that problem. So I'm not of much help. You really can't go wrong with ARP.


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    Interested in a solid engine management system? Ask me about Electromotive engine management.

  3. #3
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    Get a left handed drill bit and get after it. Turn the drill bit slowly (50-100rpm). The drill bit will eventually bite into what is left and turn the bolt out.

    Or, if you have a welder, you can place a nut over the bolt and fill the nut full of weld. Then use the head of the nut to remove the bolt. The head from the welding will help the aluminum expand so its easier to remove the bolt. Since the cover is aluminum the weld will not stick to the aluminum. You will want to remove the valve cover for this so you don't melt the plastic. Cover the cams and shit with a towel to avoid splatter from getting into the engine.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  4. #4
    6S Resident Hasselhoff. alexofnazareth's Avatar
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    Thanks Sam. Holmes Depot only had those screw extractor jobbies.
    I've got a lead on a hardware store that sells individual LH bits. Opens at 730 tomorrow morning.
    Last edited by alexofnazareth; 03-23-2018 at 09:33 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    I see a failboat, steaming full speed on an ocean of failsauce into a barrier reef of lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. Livewire View Post
    if you hate seeing money going down the drane

    than do not turbo your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sixthsphere: Home of newbs, cunts, and Shane Jackson.

  5. #5
    6S Resident Hasselhoff. alexofnazareth's Avatar
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    Sam, after drilling a small pilot hole for the LHD bit to grab onto, the bolt remnants backed out real easily.
    broken head bolt_2.jpg

    Now to find some studs to use for next time:
    https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0349287?r=~%7Ccategoryl1:%22601071%20Cutting%20Too ls%209and%20Metalworking%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:% 22601114%20Tooling%20Components%22%7C~%20~%7Ccateg oryl3:%22603339%20Workholding%20Fasteners%22%7C~%2 0~%7Ccategoryl4:%22603344%20Studs%22%7C~%20~%7Csat tr01:%5EM10-1.5$%7C~

    we'll see how they work out.
    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    I see a failboat, steaming full speed on an ocean of failsauce into a barrier reef of lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. Livewire View Post
    if you hate seeing money going down the drane

    than do not turbo your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sixthsphere: Home of newbs, cunts, and Shane Jackson.

  6. #6
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    If you have a tap and die set, make sure you chase out the threads just to be safe.

    Can you not use an OEM stud? I may have some in by bolt bucket if you need some.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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  8. #7
    6S Resident Hasselhoff. alexofnazareth's Avatar
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    I spaced down the powertrain 2" since I dropped the subframe 2" as well, which made the original studs far too short to use.
    I used head bolts because they were the only thing long enough in my bolt collection to fasten through the TAM + 2" Spacer to the TCC.
    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    I see a failboat, steaming full speed on an ocean of failsauce into a barrier reef of lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. Livewire View Post
    if you hate seeing money going down the drane

    than do not turbo your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sixthsphere: Home of newbs, cunts, and Shane Jackson.

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