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  1. #1

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    Dirt track racing saturn

    I’m building a 1995 sc2 with a 1.9 dohc 5 speed
    I don’t much about get more power out of the motor
    But everything I look up says come here so here I am I really hope y’all can help
    I’ll be racing on a 1/8 mile oval track with clay bank
    It has to be “stock appearing” so no turbos or supercharged
    I’ve read something about a deebs build but not sure on what all I need to get
    Any help on getting the most power out of this would be appreciated

  2. #2

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    are you allowed any kind of aftermarket computer control of engine?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by leighv View Post
    are you allowed any kind of aftermarket computer control of engine?
    You can but it needs to Be hidden

  4. #4

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    You can it needs to be hidden
    Or on a flash drive so you can plug or unplug and go

  5. #5
    6S Resident Hasselhoff. alexofnazareth's Avatar
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    If you run an Automatic PCM you can remove all rev limits in each gear.

    You should have the 1st generation MP3 transmission.
    If you swap in the second MP3 variant, second is 5% taller if you need to hold 2nd a couple hundred RPM longer:

    http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...gearratio.html
    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    I see a failboat, steaming full speed on an ocean of failsauce into a barrier reef of lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. Livewire View Post
    if you hate seeing money going down the drane

    than do not turbo your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sixthsphere: Home of newbs, cunts, and Shane Jackson.

  6. #6
    Jon2001sc2's Avatar
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    The first question is how much are you looking at spending on it? The second question is how intense are your tech inspectors?
    Jonathan
    Just a guy with a thing for tubeframes and motorswaps...
    Saturns, I have them, too many of them actually

  7. #7
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    Those questions...and...where are you racing? If not in the same area as one of my friends i can contact you and maybe set you up with him. He is the best short track turd guy i know and can help you out a lot.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  8. #8
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    The guy i speak of just beat the shit out of his comp but lost because he wouldn't do a tear down a 1am and wanted to go home.
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by alexofnazareth View Post
    If you run an Automatic PCM you can remove all rev limits in each gear.

    You should have the 1st generation MP3 transmission.
    If you swap in the second MP3 variant, second is 5% taller if you need to hold 2nd a couple hundred RPM longer:

    http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...gearratio.html
    How do you swap the variant

    I didn’t know that about the pcm either I appreciate that

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon2001sc2 View Post
    The first question is how much are you looking at spending on it? The second question is how intense are your tech inspectors?
    I’m fine with putting 500-1000 in the motor

    Tech doesn’t dig into unless it’s obvious

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by S.Bretz View Post
    Those questions...and...where are you racing? If not in the same area as one of my friends i can contact you and maybe set you up with him. He is the best short track turd guy i know and can help you out a lot.
    I’ll be racing in Alabama
    Ecm speedway
    Moulton speedway
    North Alabama speedway

  12. #12
    6S Resident Hasselhoff. alexofnazareth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chucky3807 View Post
    How do you swap the variant

    I didn’t know that about the pcm either I appreciate that
    Pull a trans front the junkyard and toss it in. If you need instructions on how to swap the transmissions, I'm sure there's a write up somewhere on here.

    While you're in there, you can shave down the stock flywheel too
    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    I see a failboat, steaming full speed on an ocean of failsauce into a barrier reef of lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by BC. Livewire View Post
    if you hate seeing money going down the drane

    than do not turbo your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Sixthsphere: Home of newbs, cunts, and Shane Jackson.

  13. #13
    Jon2001sc2's Avatar
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    I would say an ideal build but everyone has their own preferences, this has done well on road race engines and were I to build another naturally aspirated twin cam engine I'd use this setup.
    The head would be shaved true but not necessarily shaved down due to the ability to tailor compression ratio with machining the pistons, if I were using stock pistons and rods from the same year I would shave the head down. If you do start shaving the head be sure to have the top of the timing cover shaved down the same amount to allow the cam cover to seal well. You can also have the block shaved but then you are looking at sinking more money into a build than you probably would want to.
    2000+ block for the extra reinforcement and stud girdle for the crank (not necessary but if one is handy/cheap no reason not to use one)
    Crankshafts come in three versions, early which used a different crank trigger ring and only works with the computer from early cars, mid which is the same crank but different reluctor wheel and then latter with additional counter weights but the same reluctor wheel. Some like the additional balancing counterweights of the later one, others prefer the slightly lighter mid one, I've not tested them enough back to back to say which one is better for a race engine or a street engine.
    92-94 head for the flat face valves (not a requirement but gives a little extra bump in compression, requires egr to be blocked on later cars as the port shape changed. You can also take the early valves and put them in the 95-98 head but then you are looking at more machining costs by the time you possibly replace valve guides. That said it isn't the end of the world to use the dished valves from 95-98.)
    99-02 rods with 95-98 aftermarket replacement pistons machined down to not hit the head (3rd gen rods are longer and have some benefits for making power just for that, saturn moved the wrist pin further up on the piston to accommodate this so the compression ration did not change between years. However you can take replacement 95-98 pistons and have them milled down to prevent them from hitting the head which they will without modification. You can use 91-98 rods with their pistons or use the 99-02 pistons with their rods if you don't want to put the extra work in. The 91-94 pistons are dished, the 95-98 pistons are not dished as much to keep the compression the same with the dished valves that were used)
    for the intake there are two options the early 91-98 intake allows the use of Geo Storm throttle bodies as they are larger than any aftermarket that was ever made for the saturn. The second option is to use the plastic intake from 2000-02, I've done this and had great throttle response with it but it takes some modification and the Geo throttle bodies don't fit so finding an aftermarket one that does is a pain.
    OBX header, alternatively you can use a factory 91-92 tubular header and not really see much of any power loss and it will be a "stock" part if the inspectors would give you grief.
    for cams I've had great results with Gude race cams but they do lope and might get you in trouble in the full race grinds, the SDA race cams are more mild and also work well. I've not personally run any others to say how they compare.
    Unless you have extra money to get an aluminum flywheel, normally something easy for a tech inspector to spot, take a factory steel flywheel and have that thing shaved down. We have had them under 11lbs for the race cars and no one was the wiser.
    Engine management is up to you, it is possible to get a megasquirt inside the factory first gen ECU and use the factory connectors so you can have full control over everything and no one will ever know it. I've also run the apex-i piggyback with some success and then hidden it in the dash so that you could access it if you pulled the interior dash dimmer panel out. All the wires were tucked into the harness to look like it was still stock and the screen was not visible unless you disassembled the dash.

    Definitely go over the parts swap thread as it will help break down which cars had which parts such as vacuum egr vs electronic egr: https://sixthsphere.com/showthread.p...ate-Swap-Guide
    Also there is an aftermarket parts listing, most are out of production, but it will give you an idea what is occasionally available on the used market: https://sixthsphere.com/showthread.p...formation-Dump
    Jonathan
    Just a guy with a thing for tubeframes and motorswaps...
    Saturns, I have them, too many of them actually

  14. Likes ZombieSatty, alexofnazareth liked this post
  15. #14

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    Man that’s a big help
    Y’all guys are extremely knowledgeable about these cars
    I’ll definitely build a motor
    I’m going to buy another motor to build while running this stock motor
    I really appreciate the help

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