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  1. #1

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    1996 Saturn sc2 will not idle

    My Saturn wonít idle due to a bad sensor. When i take the egr valve off it idles but with some issues just due to the egr being off. Itís not the egr because itís brand new.7583868160_IMG_0210.jpg


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  2. #2
    6S Resident Hasselhoff. alexofnazareth's Avatar
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    So you removed the EGR and introduced a big vacuum leak which helped it idle.
    Check your idle air control [IAC] valve.
    Quote Originally Posted by Donnie View Post
    I see a failboat, steaming full speed on an ocean of failsauce into a barrier reef of lol.
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    if you hate seeing money going down the drane

    than do not turbo your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  3. #3
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    Is it idling high or is it stalling?
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

  4. #4

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    So I replaced the aic sensor and the car ran perfectly fine for a bit but then after a little while it stalled out. I was finally able to get some error codes!

    Cylinder 1 is misfiring
    Throttle position sensor
    An unknown error (idk the code off the top of my head)

    Thanks a lot for the help though


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  5. #5
    6S Moderator S.Bretz's Avatar
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    If your scan tool can read the voltage from the TPS make sure it is 0.45-0.5v at idle and smoothly increases up to 4.8ish volts at wide open.
    If the idle voltage is off then you can try to loosen the screws that hold the TPS a couple of turns, rotate the TPS as much as you can (it won't turn much but should be enough to adjust it 0.1-0.15v) and tighten the screws back down. If you can get it in range then you may have a couple of issues.

    1) excessive carbon build up won't let the throttle plate close completely.

    2) the idle screw has been messed with

    3) the tps is bad.


    Resolutions to issues:

    1) Clean the throttle body with carb cleaner and wipe the throttle body and clean with a shop rag. Spray around the IAC too. If the IAC is really dirty then remove it and scrub in the hole with the shop rag and clean the pintle tip off too.

    2) Adjust the base idle... let the engine get up to temperatture. Shut off the car. Unplug the IAC. start the car. If the car stall out then open the idle screw until it stays running. Stick your finger in the throttle body while it is running a plug the iac bypass hole. Your finger will not get sucked in so don't get scared when the vacuum pulls your finger down to the hole. The base idle is what the engine runs at with the bypass blocked. Adjust this to 400-450rpm. If you don't have a scanner that will reach to the engine bay to confirm the RPM while you do this then you will need a helper to watch the tach. Once set plug the IAC back in and let it relearn the idle again. It may take a minute for the idle to come back down but it will.

    3)Replace the TPS and make sure the idle voltage is between 0.45v and 0.5v with the throttle plate at the idle position.



    Cylinder 1 misfire.
    CHeck your plugs and wires. If you have oil leaking into the plug valley then replace the valve cover gasket and replace the plug and spark plug wire. Also check the coil towers. The tower tips should be clean and shiny. If they are white and chalky then replace the coil and wires (reusing a wire that had corrosion in it will cause issues on a new coil too).
    -6S Resident Mechanical Forensics member #001.
    1995 SC2 Turbo 3.6L DOHC, 6sp manual, Ford 8.8 rearend running on MS3x.
    1998 F-250 5.4L triton...stock.

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